Re: help?'81 Westy won't idle...
- From: Busahaulic <busahaulic01@xxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2005 18:23:05 GMT
fandalay wrote:
Hi,I just re-read your symptoms. Does it run well when off-idle? There is a possibility, however remote, that the surfaces of the PC board inside the airflow meter that the points wipe accross could be contaminated or simply worn out. It usually happens to vehicles that have been exposed to great amounts of dust but high moisture could cause corrosion if the points sat in the same position and there was already some contamination. If the big black plastic cap (kida square about 2" x 2.5" as I recall it - and flat) on the top of the airflow meter has been removed ever, there is a high liklihood. If it is still glued on, much less liklihood.
I have a 1981 Westfalia, had been stored for about a year..It starts fairly easy...idles well when cold, but after a few minutes (warm)
won't idle unless I give it throttle.Has fresh gas, can't find any vacuum leak etc. Does anyone have any suggestions? aux air valve? idle stabilizer? temp. sensor? O2 sensor?
Has anyone else experienced this? I'm not looking for any guesses, but if you have been thru it, I'd love to hear what you did to rectify the problem.
Thanks a lot for any answers.
Most commonly, these wear grooves at "normal cruising speed" location and the symptom is this: You drive along on level road with no abnormal resistance (like wind) and you are near your normal cruising speed, holding a steady throttle. You sense that the engine is no longer running and you push harder on the throttle or release slightly on the throttle (either one) and the engine "fires up" again. The cause is a worn spot on the PC board.
I am assuming through all this that you have L-Jetronic FI. It was stock on 1981's... The Oxygen sensor should not be a factor in what you are experiencing. If it runs well above idle, fuel pressure, injector dwell time and head temp semsor should not be factors. I still "lean" toward a vacuum leak of small-to-moderate size. Inspect the hoses carefully. Inspect the big "S" hose as they crack terribly (I hear shoe-goo is the fix!) {About 8-9 years ago I searched through two bins full of "S"hoses - each bin was about 3ft X 3ft X 3ft heaped full - looking for some that had no cracks. Out of all those - maybe a couple hundred? - I found 3 that had no cracks in them and only one was in excellent shape. I was looking for the next older model from yours, so that excludes all the Vanagon ones in the bins, but the point is, at this age, they are failing}
You also have small vacuum lines to your distributor (and a diaphram there), to the fuel pressure regulator, to the air cleaner charcoal cannister valve... and the big line to the brake servo with inline check valve that sometimes does not seal completely. Do you have an EGR circuit on that engine? Mechanical? You can remove the valve, make a new gasket with no hole in the center and bolt it back together to see if there is a vacuum leak there. If so, you can leave the block in place.
Decel valve? Put corks in the attachment nipples so there is no vacuum leaking - if it solves the problem, you can also live without the decel valve and will have better throttle response without it, but more rumbling and popping on deceleration and downhills.
Vacuum. I cast my vote for vacuum. (Change your fuel filter, BTW!) -BaH .
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- From: fandalay
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