Re: Gas prices forcing me to look for better MPG, questions on saturns


Why did you do the valve seals? I only ask because you say next that you do
not add oil between changes. What do you mean "refurbish" the lifters?

I replaced the seals on spec. I noticed the spark plugs were getting
gummed with burned oil causing the engine to operate intermittently at
times.
When I say "refurbish", I mean take the lifters out, dunk them in a
degreaser solution overnight, take them apart and free up the little
pistons inside them. I found 7 out of 8 lifters seized.

Were they making noise? Did you use air or ??? to hold the valves so you
could change the seals?

I tried air but didn't have much luck with that so I opted to use a
string. I would bring the piston down, pack the cylinder with string,
then bring the piston up to push the string against the valves. Worked
like a charm.




So much for those who claim all Saturns burn oil after 200k km. Have you
always used this synthetic oil? and this change interval?

:) Actually, before the valve seals, I drained 2.75 quarts. After the
seal job, I drained 3.5.
I've been using synthetic since the car was 110,000 km old and always
do it every 10,000 km. I found that Costco has the best price for 5-50
Syntec.



3. Clutch? Yes.... original too.

Nicely done, you must have good starting and shifting technique.

Yeah. I avoid jackrabbit starts and try to shift as smoothly as
possible. Sometimes you can't even tell when I shift, I have it down to
an art now. hi hi.
BTW, I checked the RPM gauge on the way from work today and it seems
that I shift around 2300 for the first 3 gears and then about 2100-2200
for the last two.


Catching the torn boot problem shows good inspection habits.

Well, to this day I'm not sure if it was torn or was it something I did
to it while working in the area. Oh well, it was a good exercise
nonetheless. :)


My guess is that not making 'spirited' downshifts to maximize engine braking
has contributed to your long clutch life. I would also suggest that your
low rpm operation has contributed to your good engine service wear and low
oil consumption.


That's exactly what I'm thinking as well. It's a habit I have developed
over the years and it seems to be paying off.



I would suggest you try to find and fix this problem since it is probably
causing corrosion in your trunk. Could you have a blocked drain?


This has been happening since the car was new. The water collects
somewhere in the trunk lid and when you pop the trunk open it gushes
into the trunk.


Suggest you replace the clips or use 'shoe goo' or other urethane glue. It
is amazing stuff.

Yeah...the clips are fine, it's just that the plastic thingies broke
right off and are now stuck in the mouting holes. I'll try this super
duper glue I got from my Dad. It works wonders.

I have had a hard time keeping this dam in place but have not noticed any
overheating problems operating without it. It will help control gravel

My car was overheating last couple of summers. Even in +9C weather the
needle would swing past the middle, something that has never happened
before. I kinda suspected the air dam but was convinced that my rad was
plugged. I cleaned it with a weak CLR solution (yes, I know don't say
it). Basically I circulated this solution through the rad for 30
minutes or so. Then I checked the capacity, it seemed OK (I think 1.6
litres), but the car would STILL overheat.
Interestingly, the car would never attain its operating temperature in
the winter. The needle would stay well below the centre. I think this
was caused by the air rushing past the oil pan and cooling the oil down
enough to cool the engine once pumped back up again.
Soon as I installed the air dam....everything was normal once again.


damage. I am guessing that you are also in Canada so maybe this dam is only
required for cooling in a hotter climates but I have not had any overheating
even on the hottest of Canadian summer. I did fasten a piece of heavy mesh

Yes, I'm in Mississauga. Just west of Toronto.

screen in front of my rad which does help to protect the rad. I have

Oh yeah. I need to replace mine. I did that a few years back.

noticed a lot of gravel chiping on the front of my oil pan which I am afraid
may allow pan corrosion which others here have reported. I have used heavy
oil concrete foundation waterproofing coating to patch damage to the
undercoating under the car. It seems to be doing the job and I will be
puting some on the front of my oil pan to protect and prevent corrosion. I
do not know if this may help your corrosion areas, I did not purchase this
foundation coating specially for the car, I was just doing some concrete
work and it seemed like a good thing to do with the surplus.

That's very interesting. I'll take your idea to heart and most likely
end up doing the same. It's been a while since I checked down there but
the pan sure needs some protection.

I have one set of hinges on the drivers door which I have often tried but
been unable to lube properly. They creak and groan and increase the
operating effort. I have purchased new hinges (~$50/pr) but have not
installed them yet. I did once have a car where stiff hinges caused a
flexing of the door frame that resulted in cracks.that did require repair
and reinforcing.


Funny thing is that the motorized belts were one of the selling points
when I bought the car eons ago. That and the price. Over the years,
I've grown sick of the belts, especially when they were so sluggish it
would take them forever to retract.

This is very similar to our operation. We have '96 SW1 and have aveaged 42
mi/impgal (6.8 lt/100km) since new, total combined city/highway all season.
On the highway my wife gets 49 mi/impgal (5.9 lt/100km) but I never seem to
do that well (I do have a heavier foot). I do notice that if I leave the
roof rack in place it uses about 1 lt/100km more fuel.


Yes, that all makes sense. Your wife sure does pretty good with
5.9lt/100 for sure. I'm yet to find an optimum speed where the fuel
consumption is the best.

You do not mention any exhaust work, if you are still on the original
exhaust it is a good example of the better materials used in current factory
auto exhaust. We have had failures of the muffler mounting strap due to
corrosion on both of our cars. The rest of the system seems to be quite
corrosion resistant.


Sorry about that. I'm on my fourth muffler now. The original one lasted
6 or 7 years. Susequent mufflers failed as you have suggested, right
where the straps are.
The last muffler I put on this car is a cheapo one. I coated it with a
few coats of heat resistant paint from Canadian Tire to extend its life
- so far so good. Fingers crossed.
But you are right, the rest of the system is original. I even went to
get it replaced but the mechanic told me to save my bucks and don't
bother.
I should also mention the cat is original as well and it passes the
emission tests every two years.

You have had very good service from your car, I hope we can do as well. I
am guessing you also get good service life from your brakes and tires.

Hmmm... I'm probably on my fourth or fifth set of pads, third set of
rotors and fourth set of tires, second set of shoes (replaced last
year) but the drums are still original and STILL within spec on
diameter.

These cars are now getting old enough that they will be showing up in the
discount 'pick your part' auto wreckers so we may be able to keep them

Oh yes! I visit my local junkyard on a regular basis! :)

economically serviceable for some time. I am also a believer in buying new
and using carefully until full service life is over. These cars are now
showing up in the very cheap used market and will soon be such good value
(cheap) that it will be worth buying a good one just to use for parts. We
have SW bodies which are very usable but use the most of the same parts as
the sedans. My observation has always been that nothing you have a spare
part for ever breaks!


You are absolutely correct. I never have any trouble finding parts for
this car, either aftermarket or at a junk yard. I keep a few parts that
I collect during my junkyard trips at hand just in case....you never
know. :)
I agree with you on buying one just for spares. My Dad actually picked
up a 95 SL1 from a junkyard for $700. It would have been a perfect
spares car for me, but he fixed it up and now he drives it. Not sure
how much longer though, it burns oil like there is no tomorrow (yes, we
changed oil seals on the valves).
If he decides to get rid of it, I already have a list of things to take
off it for my car. :)

I note your handle, are the navaids you tech aviation or
automotive/trucking/marine GPS systems?


Yes, I'm a navaids tech working for Nav Canada at the Hamilton Airport.
That's my daily commute Mississauga-Hamilton-MIssissauga = 125 clicks!
:)

Whereabouts are you located? I don't even know your name.... :(

Alex

Good luck, YMMV

.

Relevant Pages

  • Re: Gas prices forcing me to look for better MPG, questions on saturns
    ... not add oil between changes. ... Things that I found bad with the car: ... may allow pan corrosion which others here have reported. ... All doors take considerable more force to close and latch properly. ...
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  • Re: OT - Laughing at Ourselves
    ... was having some car troubles. ... The oil light stayed on even though I'd ... There was a *very* bright flickering red-white light ... I thought that I'd pegged it then - obviously had to be headlights to be ...
    (rec.pets.cats.anecdotes)
  • Re: OT - Laughing at Ourselves
    ... was having some car troubles. ... The oil light stayed on even though I'd ... There was a *very* bright flickering red-white light ... I thought that I'd pegged it then - obviously had to be headlights to be ...
    (rec.pets.cats.anecdotes)