Re: to change a Honda Accord 1988 model timing belt
- From: "Burt S." <BurtSquareman@xxxxxxxx>
- Date: Thu, 03 Nov 2005 16:20:48 GMT
"TeGGeR®" <tegger@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
This bolt must be a special micro-thread indented with a "one-way"
design. This "self-torque" design makes sense since we are not allowed
to oil anywhere else except on the threads. The oiling protects the micro-
threads. Here's an image of a bolt.
http://square.cjb.cc/images/bolt.jpg
Do not oil the the bolt's face or the washer otherwise the mechanism will not work.
> Consider that if the clamped mass can move in ONE direction, it follows
> that it can move BACK IN THE OTHER. And for your theory to work, the
> clamped masses would have to move back and forth repeatedly.
> Since it is much easier for the bolt to back out (releasing tension) than
> to screw in some more (increasing tension), the bolt in a such a joint
> would tend to LOOSEN. And if you do your own Google searches, you'll find
> ALL references to clamp-bolts and precession referring to LOOSENING.
> This back-and-forth causes an effect known as "fretting", which ultimately
> LOOSENS the bolt.
Which ultimately tightens itself once properly torque. The recommended torque
is required to make the "one way" thread to work. If not torqued correctly the
the mechanism will fail and the pulley will fall out. Otherwise they'd probably
recommend a cotter pin or stake-in lock (found in tie rod, AT clutch, wheel
hub ends, and etc.)
> The Honda bolt does not loosen because it has been tightened to a position
> that will remain undisturbed until somebody disturbs it.
> If you fail to tighten a Honda bolt sufficiently, it will FALL OUT, not
> tighten more. My neighbor three doors down had just that happen to his
> Prelude years ago. His neighbor replaced the timing belt, but lacking a
> torque wrench, he just tightened the crank bolt to what felt right. Well,
> tight it was, but NOT TIGHT ENOUGH. *Precession* from the clamped mass
> BACKED THE BOLT back out again and the pulley fell off on the highway!
The momentum difference from the alternator, AC etc. and the transmission
will allow the pulley to move back and forth, unless the pulley is torque to 300lb.
The back and forth pulley movements aid the "one way" threads which ultimately
"self-torque" itself under different conditions. The bolt will continue to tighten
(screw in in) probably beyond 300lb until pulley stops sliding back and forth.
How much it tightens differs in various driving styles, transmission shift harshness
or various climates.
> The theory that the bolt tightens flies in the face of everything I've been
> able to find. It flies in the face of logic.
> The joint, once correctly torqued, does NOT move. That bolt gets harder to
> remove NOT because it tightens more from engine rotation, but from
> corrosion, and (I think) "settling" at the surface texture level.
If the bolt doesn't tighten itself on a part that has a potential for play then their
is a potential for the bolt to unwind. Either stake it, castlenut/cotter pin it or in
this case use a one-way threaded bolt.
.
- Follow-Ups:
- WHAT A BOLT IS, AND HOW IT WORKS
- From: TeGGeR®
- Re: to change a Honda Accord 1988 model timing belt
- From: SoCalMike
- Re: to change a Honda Accord 1988 model timing belt
- From: Elle
- WHAT A BOLT IS, AND HOW IT WORKS
- References:
- Re: to change a Honda Accord 1988 model timing belt
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- Re: to change a Honda Accord 1988 model timing belt
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