Re: 9" diff install
- From: one80out@xxxxxxxxxxx
- Date: 14 Nov 2005 22:28:36 -0800
66stang wrote:
> I'm planning on installing a new diff over Thanksgiving weekend. I'm
> going to buy a "drop out" unit which comes with a third member, a
> Detriot Tru-Trac diff, and a new ring and pinion (with my choice of
> gear ratio) all pre-assembled and ready to be installed. Its going in
> the 9" underneath my 66 mustang.
>
> I found it here. They have a store in Utah about 15 minutes from my
> house.
> http://www.4wheelparts.com/4wp/products/productLine.asp?cat=DRI&prodline=17&catName=Drivetrain&man=GENU&parentProdline=DriFordGENU&expand=sub3
>
> I'd like some pointers and how to's because i haven't done this before.
Pretty simple job.
1. Jack up car and unbolt driveshaft from pinion yoke. Probably best
to leave the slip yoke in the tranny, cuz if you pull it out the ATF or
gear lube will leak out the hole.
2. Remove wheels. Remove drums. They pull right off, but they may be
stuck on the shoes, which you'll know if you pull on them and they pull
out but seem to spring back into place. If so, you need to adjust the
starwheel down on the adjuster, through the little slot in the bottom
of the backing plate.
3. Unscrew the four nuts on the bearing retainer plate. There's a hole
in the axle flange that you can rotate to access these nuts, one at a
time. The axle shaft should pull out. If it doesn't, put the brake
drum back on, but "inside out," and thread three or four lugnuts back
on the studs a couple turns, so you can use the drum like a slide
hammer. Make a note of which axle shaft is longer; obviously you have
to reassemble with the longer one back where it belongs.
4. Might-as-well time: might as well replace your bearings and seals
now. The bearings require a machine shop to remove the old and install
the new. The seals require a puller hat you can rent at the Auto Zone
or Kragens, and a large socket or a piece of pipe or best of all a
seal driver to install the new.
5. Unscrew all the nuts from the studs holding the chunk to the axle
housing. If yours has never been apart it's going to have copper crush
washers on each stud. They're going to make it hard to get the chunk
free of the housing. Don't worry about replacing them on the install
of the new piece; nobody ever does. If yours HAS been apart before,
most likely it has ATF silicone all over the mounting surface, which
also is going to make it hard to separate the chunk and the housing. So
you're most likely going to need a dead blow BFH (big f**kin hammer),
or a 2 x 4 and a plain old BFH, to get things moving. Don't worry,
there's nothing holding the parts together other than stubbornness (and
washers and ATV). So whack away; think of your pointy haired boss it
that helps. And make sure you've got a drain pan under the chunk,
because some nasty gear lube is going to come pouring out as soon as
you open a gap.
180 Out
.
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