Re: Cleaning well area on 67 Mustang

Same here. First was a 65 FB from WA which was only 5 years old at the
time and in excellent shape. Bought a 66 FB from Las Vegas which had
originated in San Jose and spent it's life in Chico. Now this 65 FB
which was built in San Jose, and spent it's life in Sacramento area,
and now moving to Redding. All in excellent shape, and the latest one
has been sitting for about 13 years (covered). Had a Mustang II in the
Mojave Desert also in excellent shape (but a pig 302 4V).

The only one bought outside was a 71 with a CJ FMX combo. That came
from Kentucky. It was only 2.5 years old when I got it.

However, I have ridden in cars owned by various people in places like
Indiana, where the water from pooled water on the roads washed up and
across your feet, and the mat would float. Peel it back and you could
see the road passing by below you.

That said.... cars get switched around all over the country and you
have to be very careful. The VIN may say San Jose, but you might find
the car was moved to the northeast or southeast at some point where
the rust set in. Then someone from the west bought it in hopes of
restoration, gave up and passed it on.

When I bought the 66 FB in Vegas, my buyer looked at another one (the
one I actually sent him down to get) and a magnet would not stick to
anything below the belt line. Nixed that one quick and he looked
around and found the substitute.... which still had the original wiper
bag... even tracked down the original owner. Sold that car to a couple
from.... Las Vegas....



On Tue, 19 Jul 2005 19:40:26 -0700, "Mark C."
<mustango656@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

>"Ritz" <ritz@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:9dhDe.870$sf6.668@xxxxxxxxxxx
>> Pelon wrote:
>>> I recently purchased a 67 Mustang and between the hood and the windshiled
>>> is two grilled wells that are clogged with dirt and debris. What is the
>>> best way to clean this area and the best way to access it to clean? Any
>>> help is appreciated.
>>
>>
>> You have 2 choices.
>>
>> 1. Drill out the welds on the cowling and remove it.
>> 2. Remove the heater box from below and attack the problem from inside
>> the car.
>>
>> Don't inundate the area with water. There are little "walls" about 1"
>> high around the openings to the heater box that are supposed to keep
>> pooled water out of the heater system. Those little walls are made out of
>> *** metal and frequently rust through. So if you get any appreciable
>> amount of water into the cowling, you wind up with water in the passenger
>> side footwell when it starts pouring into the heater box. This eventually
>> leads to the floor pan rotting out. EVERY east cost Mustang in the 65
>> 1/2-68 range that I've worked on has had this problem. A pair of tin
>> snips, some aluminum flashing and some silicone sealant can be used to
>> recreate the water barriers and mostly cure this. If it was my car, I'd
>> probably attack this from the bottom.
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>
>Hey Ritz, That sounds like a bummer. I have yet to run into a car with a
>rusted cowl here in California. I've owned roughly 25. Find a rusted floor
>or two, though. :)~
>
>--
>Mark

Spike
1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior; Vintage 40
16" rims w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A gForce Radial
225/50ZR16 KDWS skins; surround sound audio-video.

"When the time comes to lay down my life for my country,
I do not cower from this responsibility. I welcome it."
-JFK Inaugural Address
.

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