Re: Diagnosing inoperative power window

maxpower wrote:
"Bill Putney" <bptn@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:5f9b40F3bt28hU1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

bllsht wrote:


I believe he's talking about using the test light to replace the motor
in the circuit. In this case, if the light illuminates with the switch
in both the up and down position, you have verified a functioning
circuit.

That works *IF* the problem is not a relatively high resistance contact
in the connectors or switches - IOW a slightly high resistance in the
circuit may light the test light yet provide diminished power to the
motor to the point that the motor can't overcome the stiction that an
otherwise good circuit and motor could overcome and operate normally.

But probably a weak motor (due to the conatminated brush scenario I
described would be more likely).

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
address with the letter 'x')


I was referring to the dome lite in the vehicle, The LH has had problems for
many years with the weather strips causing the glass to stick and not
allowing the window to lower. There has been a TSB out to install new
updated weather strips to prevent this from happening or some year vehicles
OR simply keep the glass top edge cleaned. Normally if the dome lite dims
when the window is trying to open it normally means the glass is stuck at
the top and slamming the door as the switch is in the open position will
cause the glass to lower. Then clean the top of the door glass.

Glenn

Makes sense. I have read on the 300M forums of that problem being resolved by replacing the widow motor where cleaning the molding and glass did not solve it. So on a given car, it could be a combination of sticking molding with a weak motor or just one or the other.

Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')
.

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