Re: 1999 Chrysler Concorde Speakers
- From: Bill Putney <bptn@xxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2006 20:32:15 -0400
vegascyclist wrote:
I think it is Infinity I because I don't have any rear door speakers.
That would be correct.
Where is the passenger side kick panel?
Kick panel - meaning if you're sitting in the passenger seat, it's the plastic panel that your right foot hits if you move it to the right. IOW, it's immediately in front of the door, below the dash, extends down to carpet level. Remove one screw and pull the sill cover back to get the kick panel out of the way and expose the amp.
What color is the wire?
There are two connectors - the two wires to the center speaker are on the connector with the greater number of wires. One wire is pink with black stripe, the other is pink with red stripe.
Sometimes the colors can be a little ambiguous, so to help give you confidence that you have the right connector and the right wires on that connector: There are no wires with any pink on them on the wrong connector; both wires are on the third position from one end of the connector - IOW, the connector has two parallel rows - one wire is in one row, third position from the end of that row, the other wire is occupying the exact same position in the other row. Cut either one of them (no need to cut both) and tape the cut end that comes from the amplifier to ensure that it doesn't short to anything.
Thanks for your help.
You're welcome. (you had another question - see below)
Bill
Also, the new speaker that I bought for the door need to be soldered
since they don't have the connections like the factory speaker. Any
suggestions on soldering?
Several ways to handle it. I assume the new speakers came with push-on connectors compatible with the new speaker's terminals, with pigtails (wires) attached. If not, go to the parts store and buy push in connectors to fit the speaker terminals - careful - they come in different widths. Cut the vehicle harness connectors off and crimp the push-in terminals you bought onto the factory harness wires.
If the speakers came with terminals and pigtails, you could snip the connectors that plugged into your factory speakers off of the factory harness and solder the pigtails of the new speakers' connectors to the wires that you snipped the vehicle's connectors off of. That would be a good choice if you're certain you won't ever be switching back to factory type speakers (to sell the car or something - might want to save the snipped factory connectors - snipped with a couple of inches of wire on them - in a zip-lock bag and keep them in the glove compartment just in case). Or you could keep the factory connectors attached to the harness and splice (wye) in the pigtails that came with the new speakers (remove an inch or so of insulation on the factory wires, wrap with ends of pigtails, solder and wrap with tape) - and let the factory connectors dangle free inside the door.
Your new speaker terminals are probably marked for negative and positive. On your vehicle harness, wires are light green/violet - positive, light green/black - negative on left door; light blue/red - positive, light blue/black on right door. Be sure to match vehicle wire positives and negatives up on the new speakers to ensure that they are in phase with each other for best sound. If speaker terminals are not marked pos. and neg., arbitrarily pick one to be positive on one speaker, and use the correspondiong one on the other speaker to be its positive one.
So what kind of speakers did you end up getting?
Bill Putney
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')
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- From: vegascyclist
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