Re: cap on amp

uhm this is really far off the wall but while stopping are you waiting till
it almost dies to put the clutch in thus dropping the idle so low it nearly
dies (and losing most of your amperage)

still like mz said, your battery should easily take care of this and if its
not able to then it shouldn't be able to start your car.... why did you
replace the old battery if i might ask

"matt" <guest@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:JoGdnUKSn_xYIoreRVn-vA@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> "MZ" <mark@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
> news:20050901224441.D14086@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>
>>> The CD player is not turning off, but i'm not in a position to see if
>>> the
>>> amp is. The remote wire should not be turning off because the cd player
>>> is
>>> still on. I can attempt to read voltages, but because it does it when
>>> the
>>> engine is running, but idling, i'll have to figure something out, like
>>> have
>>> someone rev then engine for a while, then idle it. The battery is a new
>>> sears die hard battery. i got the upgraded one, so i think that should
>>> be
>>> ok. THe alternator is only a 75 amp alternator. I used to have a
>>> subwoofer
>>> and amp, but i bet i wouldn't be able to hear that dropping off. and
>>> the
>>> sound is a very quick static sound, then it goes back to normal, like
>>> the
>>> draw is coming from the alternator then switches over to the battery,
>>> but i
>>> know the alternator really charges the battery which runs everything
>>> else.
>>>
>>> Should i check the potential at the amp and compare it to the battery?
>>
>> The problem sounds a little different from what I understood it to be.
>> Are you saying the music is shutting off at idle regardless of volume
>> level? For instance, if it's playing very softly, will it shut off? And
>> remain off until you accelerate?
>
> Sorry if i wasn't clear earlier. The sound makes a static-y sound and
> drops out for a split second, then comes back on. I basically listen to
> it at the same volume all the time, which is medium to moderately loud. I
> can't imagine it drawing much power cause it isn't a sub.
>
> This is what happens: Driving along, music sounds great, then i stop at a
> stop light, i have the clutch in and about 10 or 15 seconds of sitting
> htere, it makes it's noise, then goes back to normal, Mind you i'm still
> idling. Then i go and it's fine until the next time i stop.
>
> The car is an 02 Subaru Impreza. I've heard they have lousy alternaters
> (75 amp). I run a "car-computer" which i've been running for about 6 or 8
> months w/ no problems. this draws about 50 watts w/ a max of 90 watts in
> the power supply. I USED to have a 150 watt subwoofer amp but took the
> subs out. now i have this 80watt/channel amp for the main speakers that i
> bet i'm barely touching. I just put a new battery in it and new wiring
> directly from the battery.
>
> I'll give u the details of my wiring in case that matters:
> 80watts/channell * 4 channels = 320 audio watts / .6 for effiency = 533
> watts of power from the battery. at 12 volts thats 44 amps of current
> MAX. hopefully i'm pulling more than 12 volts and the current is lower.
> Anyway, i put a 40 amp fuse in line and i'm using 10 gauge wire as its
> rated for 35-50 amps for a 10ft length.
>
> Since i'm not going near my max volume and haven't blown the 40 amp fuse,
> i feel i'm in a safe range for the wire. could it be that i'm drawing too
> much current for my alternater?
>
> Its just an annoying problem, but i'd like to get it figured out in case i
> want more audio gear.
>


.

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