Re: Hair algae in new setup

On Tue, 22 Nov 2005 08:19:49 +1000, miskairal <mehiding@Oz> wrote:

>fishnut.uk@xxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>> On Mon, 21 Nov 2005 07:55:47 +1000, miskairal <mehiding@Oz> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>fishnut.uk@xxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>>>
>>>>On Sun, 20 Nov 2005 12:23:59 GMT, fishnut.uk@xxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Hello miskairal,
>>>>>
>>>>>Something I should have mentioned is that some nitrates and phosphates
>>>>>will be bound-up in the hair algae, and will give a low (nil ?)
>>>>>reading when testing. Also bear in mind that kits sold for amateur
>>>>>use can be wildly inaccurate, so don't slavishly follow the results
>>>>>(this applies to all of the amateur kits).
>>>>>
>>
>> I mean all the kits costing (say) A $ 20. The "professional" aquarists
>> use meters for accuracy for each test - nitrate , pH , calcium etc.,
>> but each of these meters costs a fortune. Use your tests kits as a
>> guide only, as the results may not be as accurate as displayed - so
>> don't begin adding chemicals to the water to change the displayed
>> results, as you may be altering something that is actually correct,
>> and you end-up ruining "satisfactory" water parameters.
>I'll hold off on spending that sort of money just yet. I dont' believe
>in adding anything to fish tanks, there is usually a cause for a problem
>that needs rectifying first.
>>
>>
>>>>>If there is an Australian magazine dealing with fishkeeping, take-out
>>>>>an annual sub'n mailorder. You will then find contacts by web or post
>>>>>for buying equip., flake etc., which will save you many $ each year.
>>>>>Buy your salt online in 25 Kgs. buckets.
>>>>>
>>>>>There was no mention of powerheads in your equip.spec.. If you can buy
>>>>>the Tunze 6060 Turbellestream, or the more powerful models, they are
>>>>>tremendous - cheap to run, and very effective. Unfortunately, they are
>>>>>not cheap to buy, but should last a very long time.
>>>>>
>>>>>Over the years, there have been several good posters from Oz, who may
>>>>>be able to assist you with contacts for m/o supplies. I don't know
>>>>>whether any of them still subscribe to this group, or not. It used to
>>>>>be much busier than it is now. Anyway, bear in mind that the
>>>>>learning-curve is very steep initially, but within 6 months I predict
>>>>>that you will be an expert ! (Or well on your way there. Ha! Ha!).
>>>>>
>>>>>Best wishes, Fishnut.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Another thing I forgot to mention, which many people do not consider
>>>>until it is too late, is to setup a quarantine tank. It will save many
>>>>$, and a great deal of heartache. It only needs to be simply
>>>>furnished.
>>>>Get a 10 gallon (preferably 20 gallon) tank, heater/stat, an Eheim
>>>>2012 or Fluval 4+ or similar internal filter, and a powerhead. You
>>>>need to start the filter in your main tank now to mature the
>>>>filter-sponge over a few weeks. Fill the q-tank with saltwater and run
>>>>a powerhead in it. For decor a few pieces of rock (preferably
>>>>liverock) and/or pieces of white PVC piping. It is easier to clean the
>>>>bottom if there is no sandbase, but you cannot quarantine many dwarf
>>>>wrasse without a sandbase as they bury themselves at night, or if they
>>>>become frightened. Lights are optional, but it may help you to inspect
>>>>the fish or to keep plants like Caulerpa you introduce. Install the
>>>>filter, run for a few more days, before introducing any fish /
>>>>inverts. The filter will probably never need cleaning, due to the
>>>>light bioload, and if you have used a piece of liverock, the filter
>>>>gets full of copapods etc.. You need to quarantine every animal for
>>>>(say) 4 weeks, and the 4 weeks starts again each time you introduce
>>>>something new.
>>
>>
>> A small piece of liverock, 3 inch diameter
>Wow - I think I can manage that :)
>>
>>
>>>THANKYOU fishnut for all your help.
>>>I have the Tunze 6060 power head, just one right now but the petshop guy
>>>recommended a second one for the other end of the tank.
>>>
>>
>> He would say that wouldn't he ! I can imagine him rubbing his hands
>> with glee !
>> I don't know what they cost in Australia- probably a fortune at LFS
>> prices. I bet online that you will get a 30 % cost reduction ! If not,
>> you can use your freshwater internal filters. Remove everything from
>> inside it - sponges, media etc.- and simply use it for water
>> circulation. You probably will not have to clean it more often than
>> annually. Maxijet PH1200 are very reliable.
>I've been buying through the petshop b/c I figured I was also paying for
>advice and this guy has been very patient with me. I gave you the wrong
>powerhead before, it's a Turbelle stream 6000, not 6060, rated at 7000
>litres an hour (1850G). The petshop guy knew that I eventually wanted
>coral which is why he probably suggested getting another. It cost me
>$440 AUS. I've got a power head that came with the tank which I had in
>there until I started up the Eheim.
>>
>>>Quarantine - I have a 90 litre (?20gall) tank for that but was just
>>>going to use my freshwater equipment as the fish would only be in it for
>>>4 weeks - is that ok?
>>
>> Yes, ideal
>>
>> I wont' be adding/buying any new fish until I have
>>
>>>the first well and truly settled in. I have an internal filter I can
>>>use, heater and lighting but I wasn't planning on buying live rock for
>>>it. The bad part is that I hadn't thought to add that filter into the
>>>main tank now for it to start growing some good bacteria - what an idiot!
>>
>>
>> This is why in 6 months you will be an expert !
>Make that 10 years and 6 months :)
>>
>>>I'll go check out the magazine subscription. There was one the petshop
>>>guy told me about but at the time the money was pouring out (into his
>>>hands) so I left it for later.
>>>
>>>That is interesting about the phosphates and nitrates binding to the
>>>algae. What do you mean by amateur's kits? My phosphate kit is a Sera,
>>>can't remember what the nitrate one is as I bought that for my
>>>freshwater fish but it has both a freshwater and saltwater comparison
>>>card in it. Can you recommend something else? Should I do a water change
>>>now via vacuuming? I dont' mind moving the rock around when I know where
>>>the crab is that came with the rock but I have't seen it for a couple of
>>>days and can't find it's latest hiding place. I've already had to deal
>>>with a huge brown snake this week and I'm all heebie jeebied out :)
>>>
>>
>> See the answer at the top of the post. Try not to disturb the sandbase
>> at all. You need to encourage "good" bacteria to colonise the sand and
>> rocks, without disturbance. Due to there only being 2 little fish in
>> there, a weekly water change of 2 gallons/week would be fine at
>> present. You need to identify the crab for safety's sake. Most people
>> look at the claws. If they are pointed like lobster's claws, or if
>> they are "swimming" crabs, they will probably cause serious trouble
>> as they get bigger/hungier. Where did it come from anyway ? Red-legged
>> and blue-legged hermit crabs are good fun to watch. I don't know where
>> in Oz you are, but I suppose most people live near the coast. You will
>> need spare shells for any hermits, so you may be able to get some off
>> the beach, if the local water is unpolluted. I would boil them for a
>> few minutes to be safe.
>Ok, I will leaves the sand alone. The crab came with the live rock and I
>have been unable to identify it. It looks like the rock and has only one
>claw which is black. I suspect it's a baddiebut so far it doesn't seem
>to have done anything. I actually thought one night that it was eating
>some hair algae which is why I've held off doing anything about it.
>>
>>
>>>Thanks again fishnut - I really appreciate the help!
>>
>>
>> Reptiles in general, and snakes in particular, have never appealed to
>> me, either. I cannot see me ever keeping a moray eel in an aquarium.
>I picked this *** up! It was in the bottom of an empty plant pot and
>I was wondering why it felt heavy and was dragging so I looked down and
>here it was hanging out the bottom flicking it's tongue at me. It was a
>very big one too.
>>
>> Most of your freshwater kit will be fine for marine tanks, but often
>> stronger water circulation is required, so people buy bigger pumps,
>> more powerful lighting etc.
>> At the moment, winter has come early here - freezing fog, thick frosts
>> at night until midday, and it says we are starting with snow by the
>> end of the week. I thought that would cheer you up ! Have you thought
>> about keeping your tank cool in your hot weather ?
>>
>> Regards, Fishnut.
>>
>
>I hope you like winter then? I dont' much go on it but then I've spent
>the last 12 years getting up to do the milking at 4.30 am every day and
>it gets down to -7°C here. I'm a few hours inland from the sea so we get
>hot summers and cold winters.
>I've set the tank up in a very cool area downstairs, often 10°C cooler
>than the rest of the house. I'm hoping not to have to spend $1000 on a
>chiller. A fan setup came with the tank which I'm hoping will blow the
>heat from the halides away sufficiently. I will just have to monitor it
>closely and be prepared for a quick drive to get a chiller if necessary.
>
>Cheers
>miskairal

You're a country girl, hey ? I used to enjoy snow and ice when I was
young, but not very much now. To be positive about things, though, we
cannot have sunshine until 10 PM in our summer without short days in
winter.
4.30 AM ? That is unknown to me, now. In my drinking heyday I used to
be staggering in at that time and later, on occasions. I was going to
say to you to site your tank in a room facing North if possible, but
that will probably be South, in Australia - anyway the coolest room.
Perhaps you can switch off the lights during the hottest part of the
day.
$ 440 Aus sounds a lot of money to me. As I said, try to get some
online Oz contacts. A lot depends on Australian import duties etc., or
if you know someone coming to Europe, ask them to bring some kit back
in their luggage.

There are often ways to avoid the cost of a chiller - icecubes in a
polybag is another.

Regards, Fishnut.

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