Re: Put os x into mono
- From: jt august <starsabre@xxxxxxx>
- Date: Sun, 02 Mar 2008 16:30:51 GMT
In article <76_xj.720$pp6.339@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>,
Bill Rider <please@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
After I opened my speaker box I saw I was overconfident in calling it a
five-minute job. The crossover board is glued to the back of the box!
I used a flashlight and looked through each speaker hole, but it was
still hard to see what was what.
Yea, it is more than a five minute job, but under an hour for someone
with the right tech background. I have desoldered and soldered circuits
like this before (I used to do arcade game repairs in the late 80's and
90's). But I lack the knowledge to troubleshoot circuit unknowns. I
was able to isolate the problem to one electrolytic capacitor with a
loose leg, push it to the left, contact is made and it worked, take your
finger off it and it leaned away enough to lose contact and fail.
So then I desoldered the bad one. It is 6.2 uF at 50V=-10%. Research
found it was a custom made cap from a company called culver that doesn't
even exist anymore. What's more, no one makes the rating. So I need to
pull the 3.? uF cap and have a friend who knows caps better than I do
look at what they do and whats out there to guide me on the best
replacement. One web forum I found convinced me that my new caps may
not be electrolytic, and that may prove to be a good thing.
If I were in your shoes I'd write down what was written on each
capacitor and a description, then put the speaker back in service. Oh
yes, try to determine if the cans are metal. Electrolytics are in
aluminum cans, but it can be hard to see the metal under the plastic.
Can't put it back in service. I had to desolder the cap to get the info
on it, and as I said, it had an internal physical crack, so the tweeter
was silent.
I should have taken digital photos. My camera takes macros. I could
see the capacitors better on my Mac screen than in the speaker box, and
I'd have something to refresh my memory.
After looking at the capacitors, I turned the music back on and looked
online. The manufacturer made only metalized-film capacitors during
that period, so I have no problem. It's funny, I found a site that says
EPI used mostly electrolytics for my model.
If I'd found I had electrolytics, I would play an MP3 of a frequency
sweep and listen with my ear close to the speaker to see if the loudness
was pretty uniform and if it shifted smoothly from one driver to
another. Replacing capacitors just because they're old seems like
changing all the old light bulbs in a house.
I only embarked on this when the one tweeter went silent in the first
place.
If you have to replace capacitors, the microfarads is the only number
you need. It's likely to be from 1 to 150 and may be followed by "uf".
I don't know enough on this, but fortunately I have a friend who does.
He will tell me what I need and where best to buy them. He's good on
that level of know-how.
jt
.
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