Re: Justify Upgrade from X-10 to Z-Wave?

I'm combining my responses to your two posts into one in this post. The
responses to the other post are addressed first ...

I am unclear about one thing. Are you having intermittent trouble
already?
Are there times when things won't turn on or off as they should or as they
do at other times during the day?

In the past, it was at my mother's house, she was using a basic key-fob and
the mini-timer to control the room lights from an adjustable bed. I knew at
the time it had something to do with the bed but I was so new to actually
using x10 that I didn't even know it was solvable. In my own home when I
first got a 'starter kit', some locations seemed to work part of the time.
Those were different than how I use it now but in reading other posts here,
I'm seeing how some of the problems likely occured from either line noise or
signal suckers. My only real problem was being able to control lights with a
mini-timer - it is very tempermental only working about 90% of the time from
my bedroom. The position of the lazyboy in the living room seemed to affect
how it worked... but it wasn't consistent enough to be proven, just
anedotal.

"Bobby Green" <robert_green1963@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:DYCdnVk7kax3q_nVnZ2dnUVZ_j-dnZ2d@xxxxxxxxxx
"Tom" <donot@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:CWO8k.5192$NQ5.3452@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
I hadn't thought about the transceiver but that does make sense given
what
I
know about the stock unit. I'm doing integration piecmeal... can't afford
to
it all at once. I plan to add a few wired switches at watch to see what
problems I run into. I'm just using modules right now and have had little
or
not problems other than two different types of controllers that worked
poorly from day one.

Which controllers have you had trouble with?

The mini-timer - never like the thing, just used it because it had a clock.
Not well designed IMO and it always ran a bit hot from the power supply. To
me, it seemed a bit anal in the limits of features when other products cost
less and did more. It worked intermittently for me and finally failed in its
remote capability... I wonder if it was defective from day one.

The other, was the UR47A Universal remote. Another design behind the curve
when I bought it. It takes a steady press to get any of the modules to
respond and the TV remote appeared to use a chipset that was at least a
generation behind current devices on the market. I had one of the more
common cable boxes used by comcast and it couldn't control it - That was 6
years ago and I switched and got sat TV and shoved the thing in the drawer
knowing it couldn't control the sat converter. I have it out now, with new
batteries and it is sluggish at best sometimes not hitting all the modules.

I have two other controllers that have never yielded a
single problem in the 7 years I had everything.

Conversely, what model/type controller has been successful for you? It
would help to know details.

Consistent success? Hold still - the PHR03 16-channel handheld from x-10Pro!
Got two of them and both haven't missed in recent memory. My only gripe is
the battery compartment design - cramped and the terminals need an
occasional re-forming to keep pressure on the batteries.


So, the question is, as I
start to encounter problems, which would be the first step - the
transceiver
or the amp? I'm assuming the transceiver but I might be missing
something.

If installing the XTB-IIR across both phases is not a problem for you (and
I
am assuming it's not because you were talking about the simililarly
installed HCA) then that's where I would start. The WGL unit plugs
directly
into the XTB's digital jack, so you can save yourself a few bucks (20 I
think) by buying the more stripped down WGL All Housecode transceiver
without the powerline interface.

Thanks for the input. I now have a clear plan how to progress and a better
understanding so that I can ask Jeff some questions... and understand the
answers.

In using X10, I will have saved substantial money over using Z-wave... and
have enough money to buy test signal strenth meter should I start to have
problems for troubleshooting. The Monterey power line signal analyzer - is
that what you referred to in another thread? I do prefer a digital readout
to see real values. I don't need on yet but I'm looking for something to buy
down the road.

Tom


.

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