Re: Why cling to old X10?

In article <wOOdnc3AP5KtumXbnZ2dnUVZ_o2vnZ2d@xxxxxxx>,
"Robert Green" <ROBERT_GREEN1963@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

"nick hull" <nhull@xxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:nhull-B105C7.15592224092007@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
In article <QO2dnRhRWMQpFnrbnZ2dnUVZ_uKpnZ2d@xxxxxxx>,
"Robert Green" <ROBERT_GREEN1963@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

While X-10 switches do work
without a neutral, I have not had any that would work with CFL's in that
particular configuration. In my house, that's just the overhead
fixtures
which we rarely use anyway, so it's not too big a deal. For others, it
could be a real PITA. I had one lamp seem to work at the front door but
a
few hours later the neighbors were asking "why is your front light
flashing?" because they thought it was some sort of "help needed" alarm.
(-:

I've found cutting the x-10 sense circuit ends the cfl flashing

I believe you might be talking about the flashing that occurs after some
CFL's are turned off. In this case, the lamp flashed while the switch was
on and could only be turned off by operating the slide switch that allows
for safe bulb changes.. It could not be turned off remotely and not even by
the switch paddle.

Just for my information, are you talking about appliance modules, and if so,
what method do you use? I used to snip the vertically-mounted diode but
have found that doesn't work anymore with the latest batch of N-Vision CFL

I always use 2-wire appliance modules, mostly with 2x40 watt florescent
fixtures but occasionally CFLs. I usually snip the vertical diode but
there are instructions on the web for newer models.

bulbs. I am aware that there's more than one current "sensectomy" surgery
and more than one style of appliance module, so that complicates the matter.
I had, at one point, thought about actually trying to measure the leakage
current through the circuit but decided it might not yield meaningful
results. I recall discussing in email with one of the regulars that
snipping may indeed defeat local sense, but there's still a small trickle
current flowing through the module. Not enough to kick over the "local
sense" anymore, but enough to cause flashing in some of the newer bulb
designs.

There always seems to be a tradeoff of some kind. )-: The N-Vision bulbs
don't require an X-10 filter, but they flash when extinguished. The
previous batch of GE bulbs didn't flash, but required a filter to isolate
their bad effects on X-10 from the rest of the house wiring.

The only filter I am using is on my wife's (Dell) laptop and I made the
filter myself with a cheap surplus choke. My own Mac and other
electronics does not seem to need filters but I will buy one of Jeff's
XTB repeaters when available ;0

In any event, the front porch fixture's running from a WS467 wall switch and
I haven't seen any mods on disabling local sense for those, although I admit
I haven't looked. I believe the general opinion of the experts here was
that running CFL bulbs on light circuits without a neutral wire going to the
switch box are likely to give trouble no matter what. I agree with that
diagnosis because the very same bulb ran fine on a lamp module that was
plugged into an outlet that obviously supplied the unit with a neutral
connection. It's only the overhead lights in each room and the porch
fixtures that won't work well with CFL's, and they are all wired without a
neutral.

--
Bobby G.

Free men own guns - www(dot)geocities(dot)com/CapitolHill/5357/
.

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