Re: Film conversion
- From: Jon Teske <jdteske@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 14:30:27 -0400
I agree with Noel. You probably really do need a scanner with a film
conversion feature or at least a source of light on TOP or your film
as you scan them.
For 35mm I have a dedicate older Minolta (Dimage Scan Dual II) that I
use for 35mm and for the work I'm doing scan both negs and slide at
something like 1800 (it goes to 2400 but I see no noticable
difference.) I'm then doing color tweaking, cropping if appropriate,
and cleanup usually with a clone tool. I have an older Epson 3170
which I use for B/W old negatives in sizes larger than 35 mm such as
127, 620, 120 and some from the 1930's I can't even identify. Since
these negs are considerably bigger, I've been scanning non-critical
stuff at 600 dpi for the 620's and 1200 for the 127s. Unlike most
flatbed scanners this Epson can do Medium Format Film. It actually
does slides and printes pretty well too and I doubt most people could
tell much difference between the Epson and the Miinolta. Most of this
stuff is archiving and cleaning up stuff from my childhood in the mid
1940's, photos of my own parents as teens (complete with old
boyfriends and girlfriends :-) ) I just want them in a form I can
archive and ultimately make modern prints from selected ones.
Many of the 127's are actually from my father's time in the U.S. Army
of Occupation of Okinawa immediately following WW II. These photos,
which show GI life, scenes of battle destruction, refugee settlement,
and my dad with his POW helpers. Dad, who worked for the phone company
in civilian life was helping to restore communications to the island.
These photos were taken most likely with a captured Japanese camera on
captured Japanese film. I have been able to scan and clean up most of
them so that they look like they were taken yesterday. I only wish my
father had lived long enough to see these digital clean ups. They are
spectacular. I and he had failed to make decent prints with
conventional darkroom printing. I scan the 127's at 1200 dpi, a
reasonable compromise between quality required, time required for a
scan and storage size. I print at 600 dpi like Noel does.
The next project after scanning my childhood will be the conversion of
1000's of slides from my kids' youth. Slides are passe' now and my
kids want prints for scrapbooks and albums. So I can those at 1800 and
do clean up and exposure/color correction, sometime correcting color
fading and other film deterioration so I have a new generation. I
archive them on CD-Rs in JPEG format and take them to Costco or Sam's
for printing. Their $0.15 per 4x6" print is really less than I can
print them myself on a photo quality printer, particularly when I'm
doing this in very sizable quantities.
Jon Teske
On Tue, 29 Jul 2008 15:44:00 -0600, Noel Stoutenburg
<mjolnir@xxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Jo_y wrote:
Let's imagine that you have:
1) negativ from a conventional analog photo -camera
2) a scanner that does not support the conversion of this negativ
now i tried to
-scan my negativ in scale (2:1)
Well, if it were me, I think I'd scan the negative at 1:1 scale, at the
maximum resolution your scanner supports. In my case, I have an older
Epson scanner, with true 1200 x 1200 dpi resolution with which I
routinely scan positive and negative images. If I want the final image
to be twice as large as the negative, I simply print the file with a
resolution of 600 x 600 dpi, enlarging the canvas as necessary.
For my purposes, the "value invert" selection under the Colors menu has
provided adequate results.
ns
.
- References:
- Film conversion
- From: Jo_y
- Re: Film conversion
- From: Noel Stoutenburg
- Film conversion
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