Re: Broken Toshiba... any advice?
- From: "Leonard Caillouet" <no@xxxxxx>
- Date: Thu, 8 Dec 2005 20:19:37 -0500
"Jeff Rigby" <jeffg212@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:772dncuSlsBdSAveRVn-oQ@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> <xkeitarox@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
> news:1133914848.539481.62050@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>> Hello everyone,
>>
>>
>> I own a Toshiba Cinema Series HD 50HDX82, and have had it for the past
>> 2 years. It's been burnt in slightly from too many video games, but
>> it's not even noticable unless you point it out - however, there has
>> been a rapidly worsening problem that I just can't seem to get fixed.
>>
>>
>> The problem started about a month ago. I noticed it only on Input 2 at
>> first, however it has not progressed to affect all inputs. If the TV is
>>
>> left off for any more than an hour or so, when you first turn it on
>> there is so much interference with the edges of anything that you can't
>>
>> make out anything on the screen. The bottom 3/4 of the screen blinks to
>>
>> the left about 3/4 of the way, with a big red line down it (yes, up and
>>
>> down the screen). After about an HOUR of sitting there blinking around
>> and being so distorted you can't make anything out, it starts to calm
>> down a bit. The distortion "wave" pattern has a lower amplitude, and
>> you can start to make things out a bit on the bottom 3/4 of the screen,
>>
>> the top 3/4 is still unlegible. After about another hour, the bottom
>> has fuzzed back almost into place, but it never gets crisp anymore. The
>>
>> top stays so distorted you can't make anything out. It's not a clear
>> cut distortion line either, it fades into the more distorted area. It
>> stays like this with an extremely distorted top, and a barely legible
>> bottom, indefinately. As long as the TV isn't powered off, you can
>> still make out what your looking at, but if it does get turned off at
>> night, you have to go through another 2 hour warm-up period.
>>
>>
>> Also, the other interesting thing I may point out, is that the
>> picture-in-picture (the 2 screen / 2 input option) displays
>> near-perfect. When you first switch the pip on (lets say it's on the
>> same input as the other screen, both input 2, displaying the same
>> image), it's fuzzy a little, but within 5 seconds it's not anymore, and
>>
>> you will have a completely distorted "original" screen, with the "new"
>> crispy clear pip screen, both displaying the same thing, just the left
>> one is screwed, and the right one is clear.
>>
>>
>> What could this possibly be? How can it be fixed? I don't want to pay
>> someone $100 to come LOOK at it and not know whats going on...
>>
>>
>> THanks!
>>
>>
>> -Dan-
>
> This is a common problem, the hyper board has bad caps on it. The hyper
> boards on the *H81 version of the Toshiba have about 16 caps that Toshiba
> recommends replacing. The problem I have is that the pads for these caps
> come off easily when you are desoldering the caps. You have to use a low
> temp iron and chipquick (an alloy that melts at about 200 degrees) to
> remove these caps safely. I believe the *H82 is having the same problem.
> Currently Toshiba is out of the hyper boards ($179 when in stock) and
> recommends sending them in to PTS for repair $139.00
>
> Problem as I see it is that PTS does not replace all 16 caps they just
> replace the caps that are bad at time of service.
Sounds like a hyper module problem to me.
I just did one that had many more bad caps than the ones that Toshiba
suggested replacing. The only value that were all good were the 470 uF
caps. All of the others had at least one that was high in ESR or DA or low
in capacitance. I just changed them all.
I have found that rather than using chip quick, I use regular 63/37
(eutectic) and a larger tip on the iron. I like the K tip for the Hakko
936. It looks huge, but the knife design with the edge and bevel allow me
to get into almost any situation. The large mass provides excelent heat.
Using the larger tip keeps heating time lower and prevents damage to the
lands. By adding just a dab of fresh 63/37, the joint releases easily. Not
something a novice wants to try, for sure. I learned this trick from a guy
who rebuild boards for an amp maker. That K tip lasts forever also.
I have not been impressed with the work from PTS recently, either. Their
prices are a bit high to make most repairs cost effective.
Leonard
.
- References:
- Broken Toshiba... any advice?
- From: xkeitarox
- Re: Broken Toshiba... any advice?
- From: Jeff Rigby
- Broken Toshiba... any advice?
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