Re: book or article(s) about making patterns for trousers

There are two major crotch measurements you need to get right...
total crotch length, CF waist to CB waist through the legs; crotch
depth or chair depth and side seam/waist intersection to a flat chair
seat as you're sitting. And the crotch shape has to look like you...
younger women tend to have more backside than front, older women, the reverse,
so the curve shape has to reflect that.

Ursula, the chair depth measurement in Crawford's system is done by
sitting in a flat-seated chair (I usually get people to sit on a coffee table
for this one), and measuring from the intersection of the side seam position
with the desired waistband position, down the person to the full hip, then
straight down to the chair seat. This is essentially the "rise" of the
body of the pants, but it's measured at the side seam rather than the
usual way of measuring at center front to crotch. Because this draft
automagically produces the slanted waist from the measurements taken, the
side seam to chair seat measurement is a good measurement to draft from.

Also: when you change sizes and want a new pattern... a good crotch curve
that actually fits you will hold constant for at least a size up and down
from the one it was drafted for... and often it will hold for two sizes up or
down. So to change a too-small pattern, all you have to do is cut the
original up the center of the leg, from hem to waist, and then open or
close the pattern on that cut line 1/4 of the desired amount. Rejigger the
darts to suit your new body and reshape the leg and you're in business.

Kay


Kay

.

Relevant Pages

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