Re: No more flat fells for me

Dear Kate,

I started doing felled seams like this years ago when I was teaching
textile resoration to my museology students. I had a bunch of
extremely dirty undergarments of varying periods of the nineteenth
century. I decided to use some of them as class projects. The first
step is to identify the fabric--in this case either linen or cotton,
using a linen tester and then a microscope. One of the chemises in
the group had such extremely tiny stitches that I assumed it was
machine done, and dated it as late nineteenth century. The chemise
style was one that was used for many decades. But the microscope
proved that the tiny stitches were done by hand, and the felled part
of the seam was not even an eighth of an inch wide. The brodery
Anglaise, and the style of the chemise showed that it could have been
much older than I had first thought. For example, the armholes were
shaped with gussets, one inside and one outside, to form the curve of
the underarm.

Back to the present. The only time I ever had trouble with flat-
felled seams was with a loosely woven linen fabric, out of which I
made a jeans style jacket. I should have made false flat felled
seams, but didn't, and the first time it was washed, it pretty much
turned into a rag. So now it's false ones when using loosely woven