Re: 'tent dress' altering questions (bust)

On Tue, 08 Aug 2006 07:24:52 -0500, D Curtis
<mdcurtis@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

I offered to make a sun dress for my dear friend. She wants one similar
to http://www.mccallpattern.com/item/M8108.htm (McCalls 8108) except
make it 'tentier'. I think that part should be easy enough since she
wants the sleeveless version. The problem I am having in considering
this project is that she has a substantial bust. My plan was to take the
pattern and draw an angled line down from the sleeve hole to make it
more billowy but how do I accommodate her bosom without making the upper
body section to large?

I'd adjust for the bust first and make it tentier later; widening for
the bust might make it tenty enough.

I'd copy the pattern, since enlarging a bust whacks the pattern up
pretty good and you might want to get back to where you started. And
instead of patching and piecing, you can copy part of the pattern,
move it, and copy another part.

To make room for the bust, you must add both length and width. First
mark the high point of the bust -- this should be on a line that
passes through the existing dart, and closer to the center front than
the point of the dart. Draw vertical and horizontal lines through the
high point.

Draw a vertical line on your blank paper to be the center front. Draw
another vertical line to match the one running through the high point.
Draw a third vertical line to show how much you want to add to the
width.

Also draw two horizontal lines to correspond with the horizontal lines
through the high point.

Assuming that your center front is on the left: Copy the upper left
quadrant of the pattern with the center front on the center front line
and the horizontal high-point line on the upper horizontal high-point
line.

Shift the pattern so the vertical high-point line is on the right
vertical high-point line and copy the upper right quadrant of the
pattern.

Shift to match the center front line and the lower horizontal
high-point line. Copy the lower left quadrant.

Shift to match the right vertical and the lower horizontal. Copy the
lower right quadrant.

Draw darts that bring the shoulder seam and side seam back to original
length.

If you don't want a shoulder dart, close it up by pivoting around the
high point.

If this adds too much flair to the skirt, take some out by opening the
side-seam dart, again pivoting around the high point. This will give
you a humongous side-seam dart, since it was fairly huge to start
with.

To copy the pattern with the shoulder dart closed up in the first
place, don't draw the second vertical line until after copying the
upper left quadrant. Then mark the point where the second vertical
should intersect the upper horizontal line and connect this point to
the point where the *stitching line* of the shoulder seam intersects
the first vertical line. Extend this line to show where to place the
pattern when copying the lower right quadrant. This line should give
you a pretty good idea how much the skirt is going to flare; you can
adjust the flare by pivoting around the high point before copying the
lower right quadrant.

Flare the back by about as much as you flared the front. If it has
darts, you can add flare by closing or partly-closing them. Again,
the pivot points will be somewhat beyond the ends of the darts.

All cutting lines will need to be trued up.

Joy Beeson
--
http://joybeeson.home.comcast.net/
http://roughsewing.home.comcast.net/ -- needlework
http://n3f.home.comcast.net/ -- Writers' Exchange
joy beeson at comcast dot net







.

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