Re: tiny gussets


enigma wrote:
i want to put shoulder gussets on the shirt i'm making. the
gussets are triangular, about 2.5" per side. on my toile i
sewed the gusset to the front shoulder seam, then sewed the
front to the back at the shoulders, sewing along the other
side of the gusset when i came to it. this left a weird
looking little gather near the point. while i know it's not
the end of the world, little wrongnesses like that drive me
buggy. how do i get the gusset to lie smoothly? should i seam
the shoulder & then install the gusset? is there a way to clip
the seam so it lies flat nicely that i'm missing?
maybe i need to change the size/shape of the gusset?
lee <currently recutting the front & back to fix the oversize
neck opening. i want gathers, but not *that* much!>
--
Gussets can be tricky, in part because at least one edge will
usually ( but not always) be on a partial bias, and, as such prone to
stretching. And little gussets are as lot like sewing Barbie
clothes--tiny angles, points, and insertions. Sometimes the best way to
set them in is to hand-baste first, easing any stretching or fullness
into the seams. Don't press until you've machine stitched the gusset.
I found it helpful to sew with the gusset seams uppermost under the
sewing machine foot, so I can see when I reach the point. Stop there,
make a couple of wee backstitches, then sew the other side of the
gusset as if it is a separate seam: again, starting at one end of the
point, stopping at the other end of the point. You'll get better with
practice. I used to hate gussets, but kind of enjoy them now.
Flip shirt to right side and check to see if you have completed the
seams. If the seam is open a tiny bit, you may need to stitch closer to
the gusset point.
Cea

.

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