Re: Wall Mount TV Questions Help-OT

Sorry to be lengthy here.

I accept your points and agree that the fire place wall is going to be too
Hot. Even if the TV does survive, it is just plain freaking me out worrying
about it. The mantle is higher than the current viewing angle on the table
set we use now (as was pointed out) so I agree this will cause another
problem. I will arrange the furniture to re-center the room and get a better
set of drapes on the large plate glass window as it is directly accross from
the "ideal" wall to stop the sun light wash out. So the Fire place is out of
the plan.

I have started assembing the Structured Wire Box to wire the house. but I
have some more questions. Correct or advise where I am wrong Please.

I will pull the CATV, SATV, 2 CAT 5e,1 RCA that is run over a Cat 5e and
BNC from the SWB to the wall below the TV.

I think the CATV and SATV are RG6 with Aluminum Sheild. right? The
distribution module that I have is 1 source and 8 drops but it also has 4 F
style inputs for modulated inputs. The modulator that I have (MOD301) is 3
inputs each using RCA with an F style output. I have planned to put it at
the SWB which is why I also plan a Cat 5 e from at least 2 other locations
terminated as RCA to the SWB.

The CCTV cams that delivers NTSC output would use RG-59U Quad sheild 95%
copper.

At least 3 of the Cams are the Honeywell Opticams which run on cat 5e and
the Optiflex router will be in the SWB. The Optiflex can be accessed on the
LAN locally or remotely by PC and also wires to the KP bus of the Vista 21
IP security control. (also downstairs). The optiflex router also has 2 BNC
outputs. 3 outside cams will be traditional NTSC back to a DVRe.

I think the VGA runs from the TV to where the PC is going to be. Is there a
distance limitation on that (50' similar to RS-232)?
Is it a standard multi-conductor for VGA and just wire the connectors or is
it a specialty cable?

Are the 2 HDMI, S-Video, RGB, USB and seperate specialty cables. with a
specified length? Or just the standard component to component cables? Can
each of these use CAT5e and just terminate with the correct connector.
Should the S-Video be 4,7 or 9 pin? or is that determined by the components?
Is there a reason that they should pull back to the SWB? or just to the
components on the entertainment table with the cable and SATV boxes (i.e.
DVD, VCR, etc.)
If I should pull something back to the SWB what and what type of cable?

What conductor do I pull for the IR remote should these cable and satelite
boxes be relocated?

Thanks for any help you can give.

"Jim" <alarminex@xxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:b8f34165-607e-4c86-8c99-4c70d10f1049@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
On Sep 4, 10:37?pm, "Seccon1" <secc...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Group,

I would appreciate a little help from any of your experience and input.


"Jim" <alarminex@xxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:b8f34165-607e-4c86-8c99-4c70d10f1049@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
On Sep 4, 10:37?pm, "Seccon1" <secc...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Group,

I would appreciate a little help from any of your experience and input.

The location that I want to put a Wall mount TV in my Living room is above
the ventless fire place.
I am concerned about the heat rise above the mantle. I do not know the
temp,
but when we have used the fireplace I have felt the mantle and the heat is
respectable.
I have not found information on the affect of ambient heat surronding the
unit. Is this a major concern?

Should I go with a ceiling mount projector? What would the distance be
from
the projector to the wall? I am sure that if that is the case then my
ceiling fan is exactly in the way!

The space above the mantle is 42" high and 78" wide. The desire is to use
the screen predominately for TV, but an occassional use as PC screen.
Other
inputs would be nice such as other video sources for entertainment and
possibly ?security video.

Any of your input is appreciated

thanks

Michael

Here's my two cents.

Putting TV's above a fire place seems to be "the thing" now. The only
reason I can fathom for the desire to do this is that it's "something"
to put over the fire place. Perhaps in place of a mirror or portrait
of your mother in law. It certainly isn't a good place to put a TV for
multiple reasons. Especially if it's being done after the walls and
fireplace are already installed.

Here ya go ........ TV's don't last as long in a hot environment. If
you run your fireplace a lot and during then during the time you are
watching TV and depending upon how much heat escapes your fireplace,
you can take years off the life expectancy of the TV. Plasma TV's run
hotter than LCD's but the effect is the same. I've read that as it
approaches 100 degrees, the deterioration accelerates non-linearly.

Although you might not think so now, but if you think about it, the
most comfortable way to watch a TV over a fireplace, is reclined in
your chair. Sitting upright on a couch, for instance, watching a TV
mounted 5 feet or so above the floor, is not comfortable. You'll wind
up putting your head back to rest on the back of the couch. Think of
how you sit now when you watch TV .... or how you sit when you are
reading the newspaper in your chair. TV tables and credenzas are made
low for a reason.

As Crash says, running wires behind the wall for both electrical and
audio/video is a PITA. You should be runing just about every A/V wire
that you may ever need between your A/V source and your TV, because
you'll not be easily be able to do it again in the future. They should
consist of at least the following. 2 HDMI ver 1.3 DPL verified cables.
2 component video cables. 1 composite video cable and one set of
stereo audio cables. One digital audio cable. Check your TV to see if
the digital audio output cable should be an optical TOS cable or a
digital coaxial cable. Or .... your TV may not have an digital audio
output jack also, so then you don't need one. Also run an RG6 and
possibly two coaxial cables depending upon how many coax inputs your
TV has. Many TV's use the coax input for PNP source. Run 2 Category 5e
wires too. These can be used in many different ways with the use of
Balin transformers. You have no idea what your next TV may requre and
the 2 Cat 5e's just may just save you the time and expense of opening
up the walls to run a new wire. Leave at least two to three feet slack
at the TV end to facilitate hooking up cables easily before mounting
the TV to the wall mount. Depending upon how your A/V source is set
up, you might need to leave anywhere between 5 to 10 feet of slack.
What ever you do, leave enough slack in the cable at the AV end so
that your components can be pulled out through the front for
installation and cable and equipment changes in the future. Unless of
course, you have rear access to the components.

If you're thinking about hooking a computer directly to the TV, you
might want to install a VGA cable also. Be cautious about the length/
distance to the computer. Some TV's have a USB, RS232, or Cat5
computer connect.


If your A/V equipment is not going to be visible from where you sit,
don't forget about installing an IR repeater with the receptor
viewable from where you sit, to get your signals to components. If
components are going to be in a closed area, allow for installing an
exaust fan, which equates to raising the noise level in the TV area.
Quiter fans are more expensive. Heat will kill a $2000.00 receiver
just as easily as a $200.00 unit. Maybe sooner. If you're having
cabinets made or you're getting new ones, make sure you understand
that most off the floor cabinets are usually not deep enough. Some
components are 20 inches deep and you need at least 3 more inches for
cable bend at the rear if there's a back on the cabinet. No back is
desireable for heat and accessablity reasons but you can't just remove
the back from a lot of off- the-floor (less expensive) cabinets
because they depend upon the back for stablity.

Now, here's the bad news. If you plan to run (or have someone else
run) these wires, there's no easy way, without opening up the sheet
rock, to tell if the wires will be laying on top of the fireplace.
Yeah, I know, they say that it doesn't matter, but I just can't see
something like wire insulation laying on a source of heat for 10, or
whatever, years, without it affecting the cable performance,
especially the HDMI cables. And, in the worse case, causing a fire.
IT'S JUST PLASTIC!!!!!! Don't forget about the slack I told you to
leave at the TV for ease of mounting. What happens to that slack when
you push it back in the wall? The best way I've found to run these
cables is in a large conduit. PVC pipe or some kind of semi-rigid flex
tubing to keep them away from the fireplace. But this can only be done
in new construction or by breaking sheet rock.

The electrician should have the same concern. How'd you or your kin
like to touch your fire place and land on the other side of the room,
dead or alive. Don't forget, if it's a gas fireplace, it grounded
"really, really good"

As far as front projection, you'd most likely have no choice but to
break sheet rock. Consider the cost of the cables will raise
considerably due to the length to get to your A/V equipment. Nowdays,
many projectors have the same number of in/outputs as TV's do. So, if
you want to do everything with the projector, you need all the same
cables. Consider building some kind of box around or near the
projector to hide the cables. If you're going to enclose the
projector, you have to provide some kind of ventilation fan to remove
the heat. They DO run hot. Probably should mount an exhaust fan
remotely to suck the hot air away. The fan in the projector will make
enough noise without adding to it. As far as how far away to mount the
projector it depends on how big a picture you want to wind up with,
the light output of the projector, and the lens that comes with it or
if it can be changed or not. I've seen them mounted as close as 10
feet away or so but that would probably put it right over your head.
That's annoying. Usually behind you is better, but you need the lumens
to get a good picture which translates to more money for the unit,
cables and more heat etc. Bulbs run anywhere from $250.00 to $350.00
and if you're not handy, labor. Life expectancy, about 3000 hours.
But, hey, it's just a bulb and they get dimmer the older they get.
There are some new DLP rear projection TV's that use an LED light
source but they're powerful enough for a front projection units.

You didn't mention what kind of TV you are considereing. For wall
mount you only have two choices. Although I think that DLP RPTV is the
better picture, it's not a flat screen technology. So that leaves you
with Plasma and LCD. Here's some pointers. Plasma is heavier, runs
hotter, more subject to burn in, has reflection problems from ambient
sources of light. (windows, lamps, etc). There is one brand plasma TV
that has some kind of anti glare film but of course it cuts down on
the brightness of the TV which means you have to drive the contrast to
max. The good thing about Plasma is that if you will consider getting
a Pioneer Kuro, you're going to get the best black reproduction
available today, at a semi reasonable price. If you can go for it, get
the Kuro "Elite". You'll have to decide if the extra cost is worth the
difference in picture quality. However, if you intend to play games
for long periods of time or let the computer screen sit there for
hours without change, burn in will get ya.

As far as LED, the main drawback is "drag". That is, when you have a
fast moving bright object passing in front of a darker backgound, you
see a "blur" behind the bright object. Money only reduces this effect
by getting a LCD TV with 120HZ refresh rate. They'll fix it
eventually, but not yet.

For my use, I choose a Plasma for what I think is a better picture.
But you have to make the choice depending upon your useage.


.

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