Re: Sorta OT - Wood Tooling Question
- From: "Joe AutoDrill" <bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 17:08:54 GMT
I would think so.
What alloy wood? :)
Coolant?? :) :)
Many types of bits.
Spade type may not be the best, and if similar to the sets I use
occasionally (center tip, wide/flat flute, seems to scrape the wood out),
generate *boucou* heat, jack..
Forstner/auger bits better? Regular twist?
Ax on rec.crafts.woodworking et al.
Also the rcm peeple might know.
I think he is considering a carbide insert tooling at this point which would
solve a whole lot of potential problems for him...
And note that woodworking routers operate at 20-30,000 rpm.
Yeppers... Won't ee me running that quickly with my ER25 spindles... :)
Also, if the hole is or could be a thru hole, he could core it, altho 7"
is a bit of a long core.
Can also core from opposite sides, if you drill a smaller alignment hole,
mebbe do a finish pass with a spade or hone-type jobbie.
Can't do it... But would be nice. He has 2-3 minutes to drill all the
holes in a single pallet-like part... Including one move of the item and a
second drill stroke.
May also want to blow air in there, which will cool the bit, and remove
Or blow AND vacuum.
Maybe... Just maybe... Thru the spindle coolant (but with air) might be
cool in this ap.
I've put in a number of hours milling wood on BPs/Fadals, using regular
1/2", 3/4" two and four flute ems, as well as 3/16", and never had a
problem. Nothing over 1" deep, tho. Even face-milled, engraved wood.
Gotta watch the grain, tho.
Never run the fadal over 3,000 rpm. It's a hack/sissy thing.... :)
Joe Agro, Jr.
Automatic / Pneumatic Drills: http://www.AutoDrill.com
Multiple Spindle Drills: http://www.Multi-Drill.com
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