Practical Ideas

To All:

Saw this while reading American Machinist at lunch.

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http://www.americanmachinist.com/304/Issue/Article/False/76514/Issue

Practical Ideas
Charles Bates
11/26/2007
From the pages of PracticalMachinist.com

Drill sharpening blues
After handsharpening drills, I often have the problem of them cutting
with only one of their two flutes and drilling oversize. When this
happens, I apply bluing to both cutting edges, drill a little more,
remove the drill and check the edges. The edge that?s heavy will have no
bluing on it, so I regrind that side, re-blue both edges again and
repeat the procedure until the bluing wears off evenly on both cutting
edges.

Installing bearings
Before repacking and installing bearings, do not ?whiz? the bearing
(making a sirenlike noise) using compressed air. This ruins a bearing
faster than running it dry at high speeds. Instead, after rinsing the
bearing in clean solvent, blow it out across its surface while holding
both races together. Then, apply grease and slowly roll the races,
balls, rollers and cages around to ensure all surfaces are coated.

When installing, do not use brass or aluminum to drive on the races
because small slivers may chip off and work their way into the bearing.
A better choice is a piece of mild steel stock, such as keystock, that
is tough enough to take the pounding but soft enough not to harm the
bearing races. Finally, run in the bearings so the balls and rollers can
roll and form a track, instead of just skating around.

Removing bearings
To remove an outer race from a bearing in a blind or semi-blind hole, I
grab the welder. With the inner race and balls gone, I run a bead of
weld around the inside of the outer race, let it cool and it usually
falls out when turned over. Be careful not to weld the race to the
housing.

Paper on edgefinding
To quickly and easily edgefind a part without having to remove the
cutter from the machine?s spindle, I creep the cutter up close to the
workpiece or vice and slip a piece of paper between it and the rotating
cutter. I then hold the paper in place, making sure my hand is a safe
distance from the cutter, and slowly feed in the cutter until it tears
the paper away. Once that happens, I raise the machine?s quill and move
in a distance of half the cutter diameter and set the machine?s readout
to zero.

Idea gears up for workholding
I hold odd-shaped (out-ofsquare) parts for machining using sections of
gears. To prepare these sections, I cut a 6-in.- diameter,
0.750-in.-thick gear in half and machine down the flats about an inch on
each side, so when I mesh the gear teeth together, the two flats become
adjustable.

In operation, I mount the good/straight side of a part against the fixed
jaw of my vice and the meshed gear on the opposite side so it adjusts to
the part?s shape. This idea works well on relatively severe angles, but
I recommend taking it easy when cutting.

Another option is to substitute one of the round gear sections with a
piece of rack gear and bolt it to the back jaw of the vice if possible.
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Anyone got any other useful ideas?


--
BottleBob
http://home.earthlink.net/~bottlbob
.

Relevant Pages

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