Re: Electric Water Heater Maintenance

mcp6453 wrote:
Nate Nagel wrote:
mcp6453 wrote:
Bubba wrote:

I'm sorry to say but if you didnt replace that cheap plastic drain
valve then you likely got nothing out of the water heater except
water. The clearance between that washer and its seat is very very
small. Thus the need for a full port valve.

Makes sense. I wonder how the manufacturers get away with that.

Most people use the valve exactly once, to drain the tank when they replace it. Sadly the concept of "maintenance" just does not occur to most people. Thus very few complaints about the lack of a sturdy valve...


In regards to removing the plastic valve, most of the time they crack
off. Just grab it with channel locks at the base, rock it back and
forth a bit if you can to get it loose but most of the time they just
break. Dont worry. Its only plastic. It will come out.
The 1/4 turn valve (ball valve) is 3/4" IPT (iron pipe thread). It has
female threads at both ends. Install a short nipple (die-electric) in
the tank first, then the ball valve, then a 3/4 MPT (male pipe thread)
to hose adapter.

So are you saying that if it breaks off, I should still be able to get the rest of the plastic pipe out of the threaded part of the water heater? Man, if I break it off and can't get the right one in there, I'm out of hot water until I get a new water heater or a plumber! Just looking for some reassurance here.

Is this what the replacement valve should look like?
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/images/SetupBallValve.jpg

http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/OrderPages/XCart/Sediment-Control-Flush-Kit.html


This is exactly what your valve should look like when it is assembled. On my (gas) water heater I needed to add a coupling and a short brass nipple between the dielectric nipple and the ball valve to clear the gas valve/burner assembly, but you said you have an electric, so that should be all you need. While you're shopping pick up some teflon tape or pipe dope if you don't have any laying around.


I'm going over to Lowe's tomorrow to see if they have what I need. If I recall correctly, I may be able to remove the lower heating element to see inside the tank to see if there is crud.

Probably not necessary, but can't hurt. If it seals with an O-ring or gasket you may wish to pick up a replacement.

If you are going to Lowe's and don't have a good flashlight, their 3W 2-C cell LED "Task Force" flashlight is excellent, compact, and cheap, I have two. (I mention this because Lowe's is not at all convenient to me, and I went out of my way to get those flashlights. A good flashlight is key if you expect to see anything inside the tank. You still may not see anything...)

nate



Why would I want a curved dip tube? To be able to get it into the tank with a low clearance?

That's something unique to that web site, and their theory is that the curved tube allows you to flush more completely. I wouldn't worry about that part of your existing heater unless you determine that a) it's worth reworking as the tank is still sound and b) you have an unusual amount of sediment build up.

I've never seen them anywhere else but that web site; I'm guessing that they've found a type of commercially available dip tube that made of a type of plastic that can be bent when heated and will re-set when cooled, and they just bend 'em themselves.

nate

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Relevant Pages

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    ... Thus the need for a full port valve. ... Most people use the valve exactly once, to drain the tank when they replace it. ... So are you saying that if it breaks off, I should still be able to get the rest of the plastic pipe out of the threaded part of the water heater? ... If you are going to Lowe's and don't have a good flashlight, their 3W 2-C cell LED "Task Force" flashlight is excellent, compact, and cheap, I have two. ...
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