Re: Non Contact Voltage Tester?

nntp.aioe.org wrote:
"James "Cubby" Culbertson" <Nospam@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:T62dnairbbhWIDPbnZ2dnUVZ_oytnZ2d@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
"Edward" <Edward@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:46aeaa97.14533171@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
I am in the process of installing a shitload of T8's in my parents'
kitche. BUT, there was a severe electrical storm today, and I'm
paranoid about lightning. So I just walked around Lowes in the
electrical section looking at all the goofy plugs.
I looked at the wire strippers and other assorted tools and came
accross this
Gardner Bender Circuit Alert Non-Contact Voltage Detector
Model GVD-504A
Apparently one waves it around an electrica cable to detect the
presence of AC power.
Sounds pretty nifty.
Do these actually work? Wouldnt there have to be a "flow" of power,
and therefore a load on the line for it todetect anything? Or can one
simply have nothing on the line and just an open LIVE circuit?



Mine works pretty well. I think I paid $13 for it (?). Just make sure you test it on a known live circuit first to ensure the battery hasn't died.
Cheers,
cc


Exactly.
trusting my life to something I get from wal-mart... Has me a bit uneasy.
When I opened up the fixtures I was going to replace, a little voice told me to get one of thse magic wands.
The breaker was turned off... but still.
I don't know why.



I'm not too wild about these for voltage checks, although they are the cat's pyjamas for finding where a cable run is behind the drywall (saved myself from nailing through in the wrong spot more than once now). If you are at risk from getting zapped by leads in a conn box somewhere, better by far IMHO to check with a multimeter. You can get one at Canadian Tire or Home Depot or wherever at a pretty reasonable price, and they're pretty good quality and precision, unless you're an electronics enthusiast looking for four decimal places.

While personally I prefer analogue meters, they do have some potential problems such as low input impedance (meaning they can "load" a circuit down), and it's too easy to get erroneous readings or damage the meter if you forget to select the correct range. Most digitals are either auto-ranging or will give you a warning if your input exceeds the range setting.

One thing I would stress is whether you go for analogue or digital, check that it's rated at least Category II. This relates to what kind of transients it can handle. Category I is the lowest; and is considered suitable for electronics and telecommunications equipment. Category II is for branch circuits - lighting, appliances, 120/240 volt distribution inside a building. Category III is for distribution circuits, feeder panels, etc.; basically anything up to the utility transformer. Category IV is the highest level. Obviously the higher category rating you get, the more expensive the meter will be, all else being equal.

Yours aye,
W. Underhill
--
"Take sides! Always take sides! You may sometimes be wrong - but the man who refuses to take sides must *always* be wrong! Heaven save us from poltroons who fear to make a choice!" R.A. Heinlein, "Double Star"
.