Re: Air Conditioning Question

Moe Jones wrote:

PCGumshoe wrote:


I live in Florida, so it is very humid and between 80-94 degrees daily
during the summer.

When I first moved into my home, I would set the AC to 72, then 74. I
noticed it kept running and running never getting cool enough. I
called my home warranty company and they sent out an A/C tech and he
said it was all working fine and the size was appropriate for the
house. He said it was less than 5 years old.

Now, I keep the A/C at 80 during the day and 78 when I sleep. I've
installed a ceiling fan in the bedroom and I seem to be able to sleep
better at this temperature. However, I notice now when it is 80
degrees outside (at night) and I have the temperature set at 80 or 78,
it seems like the A/C is working all the time.

Is there something else I can do to improve the efficiency of my A/C?
I seem to have to change the Air Filters (that claim to be 30-90 days)
in less than 30 days.

I know I need to get rid of my windows and put in new ones, but I've
tried to insulate my doors and windows better for now. but I can't
understand the attempt to lower the temperature 1 to 3 degrees and it
taking so long.



You might want to spend the extra money and hire another A/C company to go out to your home and have them double check your system. Tell them you have had the system check and they found nothing wrong. This way the service tech. knows that someone has already checked the most common parts of the system. Heck it could be loose or disconnected duct work in the attic, your attic is not vented properly to relief the build up heat or could be a number of things.

To have them check your system should take a hour to two hours to complete an inspection.

Now one thing you can do is take the temperature at the return air opening, the filter grill, and then take the temperature at the closest supply air opening and see if the temperature difference is around 20 degrees.


In response to prior posts' a 2 or 3-Ton system is relatively the same BTUH rating & if installed properly "in dry climates'" should cool at approximately the same rate as the old condensing unit.

In high humidity climates the new higher EER & SEER condensers have a smaller BTUH compressor as compared to the two over sized coils. Therefore, they operate somewhat differently in high humidity climates where there is excessive moist air infiltration.

If there is high humidity content air infiltrating into our home the evaporator will use most of its capacity to condense that moisture from the air & very little to lower the sensible or actual temperature that you read on a thermometer or room TH!

First, go over your home with someone that knows how to seal it against excessive humidity infiltration into your home.

Next, go over every thing concerning the entire system that could be reducing the optimal transfer of latent heat (i.e., humidity condensation) plus total heat absorption & transfer to the condenser outside. Check the temp split of the condenser's discharge air against the outdoor temp & post it, that may provide us an indication of the amount of latent heat of condensation being removed, "or if there is an outside source Return Air leak."
If the degree of Split is too low or too high, there could be a problem that needs correcting.

It could be overcharged or have numerous other problems needing attention.
http://www.udarrell.com/airconditioning-excessive-airflow.html

Check out other of my pages so the tech will recognize that you have some knowledge of the system.
Man, it should pull the temp down well below 78 at night & cycle off; IMO there are things with the home &/or the system that may need correcting.
The indoor temp split varies with the % of Relative Humidity; buy a humidity gauge & tell us the readings. - udarrell

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Relevant Pages

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