Re: Centrifugal switch on Kenmore dryer motor

Thanks to all for your replies and suggestions. The model no. is 110.
86870100.

The switch looks exactly like the one at the repairclinic.com link that you
sent. On the advice of many helpful folks, I have checked the circuit
breaker. I've checked the outlet - 120V on each side. I've checked the
thermal fuse, the thermostats, etc. for continuity. I've removed the heater
element and wired it to an extension cord and it gets hot. I've checked the
timer and it is sending 120V down to the heater. It seems the only piece
left is the motor switch, but I'm looking for advice on how to test it. If
it only works when the motor is running, do I remove the drum and test it
with a voltmeter to see if it is sending 120V to the heater? There are 8
wires on the switch. The wires on no. 1 and 2 are red and much heavier gauge.
Since the wires going to the heater are also red and much heavier, I'm
assuming that it is one of these two wires. I'm assuming that the wire
should have no voltage if the motor is not turning. If the motor is turning
and the switch is working, it should have 120V. If the motor is turning and
the switch is bad it should have no voltage. Is there another condition
where the motor would have no voltage? Am I on track to testing the switch?
It's a lot of money to put into a new switch, if the old one isn't bad.

Thanks again to all.

Ken

SRN wrote:
. I don't
have any diagrams,

There should be a schematic pasted on the back of the dryer.

Also, it would help if you can give us the model number. There should be a
data plate just inside the
dryer door.

Trouble could be anything from a bad circuiit breaker (one "leg" open"), bad
centrifugal motor switch,
bad thermostat, bad wire, or many other things.

If a bad motor switch, it is replaceable w/o replacing motor.
See an example: http://www.repairclinic.com/0081.asp?RccPartID=2025

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