Re: Pool timer wiring dilemma


"RBM" <rbm2(remove this)@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:kMvXh.38$8K3.30@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Both load conductors should be disconnected through the time clock. If one
leg is run live, and the other is broken through the clock, it will work
fine, but the motor will have live current at it, even when it's not
running, which could be dangerous

So the motor is switched on when both leads go hot.
What I don't understand is how the pump (x-10)switch activates the motor.



"RakeKiller" <trapspam@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:18vXh.20838$OT4.17826@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

"RBM" <rbm2(remove this)@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:UBuXh.28$KT.10@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
It's hard to tell exactly what's going on here, but: The black box is a
"deck box". The conduit from the under water fixture must go to a deck
box. It likely gets its power via the gfci and the switch. The time
clock #1 and #3 are the feed 240 volt for the clock motor. #2 is the
load from #1 and has nothing on it. #4 is the load from #3 and has two
wires connected to it. It would appear that one leg of the load, is
incorrectly connected to the line, and they're only using the clock to
break the second leg

So does that mean that one lead ( on line 1)to the motor has constant
power OR does the fact that one lead runs through a load side(4) the
circuit is broken.
It seems wrong, but this was wired by a professional and has worked
flawlessly for 5+ years.



"RakeKiller" <trapspam@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:LYrXh.31$ZD3.8@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
I am in the process of installing an aquarite salt water chlorine
generator.
Before I do anything I want to make sure of something and get some
clarification.

Three pictures for reference at a pool forum where there seems to be
some confusion.
http://www.poolforum.com/pf2/showthread.php?p=44743&posted=1#post44743

Picture A shows the intermatic timer with the terminal protector
labeling the(5) terminals as ( from left to right).
A
1 ( Line)
2 ( Load)
3 (Line)
4 (Load)

Now, in picture B, coming into the timer on the right are the pump
motor wires and this confuses me.
Green to ground- Ok
Black to 4 (load) - Ok
and
Black to 1 (Line)< Huh?

Coming in from the left are the wires from the aquarite.
From the aquarite manual I read as if it should be wired as such...(
aquarite is pre-wired for 240VAC)
Green to ground.
Red to ? ( load 2?)
Black to ?(load 4?)

What confuses me here is that one power line( Black) from the pool pump
is wired to 1 (Line) terminal. I thought this should be wired to a load
terminal?
The second power line (Black) is wired to 4(Load)
Green to ground lug.

THAT said it appears the that line coming into it( red wire)is from the
switch ( that I use to manually turn the pump on an off) the in housing
just below the timer box. This pump switch is and x-10 wide /flat type
switch.

The toggle switch below IT also controls power to the pump( it is left
in the ON position)
Pool light switch and GFI outlet are NOT affected by either the pool
pump or toggle switch, both have constant power.( I assume the light
runs FROM the GFI.

I have no clue what the black box between the light and the GFI is.
I do have a remote control x-10 to turn on and off the pump/light?









.

Relevant Pages

  • Re: Pool timer wiring dilemma
    ... It likely gets its power via the gfci and the switch. ... would appear that one leg of the load, is incorrectly connected to the line, ... What confuses me here is that one power linefrom the pool pump is ...
    (alt.home.repair)
  • Pool timer wiring dilemma
    ... Black to 4 (load) - Ok ... What confuses me here is that one power linefrom the pool pump is ... This pump switch is and x-10 wide /flat type switch. ...
    (alt.home.repair)
  • Re: Pool timer wiring dilemma
    ... Close the switch and then the motor sees 220 and starts. ... What I don't understand is how the pump switch activates the ... the load from #3 and has two wires connected to it. ...
    (alt.home.repair)
  • Re: update
    ... The pump pumps way more liquid, ... I suspect your adapter is unregulated, and the switch just changes transformer taps. ... The rated voltages only occur if you load the adapter to its full current rating, and even then, there is some tolerance and line voltage effects. ... Get a $10 multimeter from Walmart or Harbor Freight Tools and measure the output voltage under your load. ...
    (sci.electronics.basics)
  • Re: Pool timer wiring dilemma
    ... It likely gets its power via the gfci and the switch. ... OR does the fact that one lead runs through a load sidethe circuit is ... Now, in picture B, coming into the timer on the right are the pump motor ...
    (alt.home.repair)
Loading