Re: New Shed Wiring


Thanks, I'm positive that the pump is 220. Here's the story, the orignal
structure on the property burned to the ground 5 years ago. At the time, the
well was wired into the breaker box in the house. When the house went, all
power to the well went, no water to fight the fire. So when I had the
doublewide set up, I had a friend run the electric straight from the box on
the pole to the well. The breaker box has a double pull dedicated to that
wire alone. I know the pump at one time was set up for 120 but was switched
over when contruction was final. Like an idiot, I let a friend run the wire,
thinking he knew what he was doing, I was wrong. So what I now have is a
cable with 3 wires buried under the ground to the well, what I want is to be
able to put a sub-panel into the shed above the well for lights and outlets.
How can I best accomplish this without burying more wire.


He did know what he was doing. You just failed to specify that you
wanted additional capacity for expansion. Before you start messing
around with trying to get different voltages and a nuetral out of your
current set up, how much total power can you pull over the existing
wire? Even if you had four wires, the hot leads are probably sized
for the pump, which would leave you no excess capacity anyway.

You should break out the old shovel, and put in a new feeder line
to a sub-panel in the shed, and re-route the feed to the well
pump through that.

Failing that, mount some solar panels on the shed, and or
feed a UPS through a transformer.


Note that many wells can't deliver water fast enough
for fire-fighting purposes anyway.
Systems that deliver 7GMP at a mere 40 PSI with 50Gallon
pressure tanks aren't uncommon.

You really need a cistern
with at least 500 gallon capacity, and a pump that can
deliver 30 GPM at at least 75 PSI.

A better system would be 3-5,000 gallon reservoir,
and 50GPM at 100+ PSI.



.

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