Re: Iron In Water
- From: Robert Gammon <rgammon51@xxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Thu, 10 Aug 2006 21:25:33 GMT
James "Cubby" Culbertson wrote:
<drbill28@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:1155183149.267373.274760@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxA properly working water softener has water in it ALL the time. When the unit generates brine for backflushing the resin, it floods the salt tank with water, lets it sit for several minutes, then draws the brine into the resin and lets it sit again for several minutes. Finally, the brine is flushed out of the resin with fresh water and the unit goes back in service.
Hello,
My sister bought a new home recently. Her well was tested before it
was closed. It was found to have a Ph of 6.6, Hardness of 110ppm, Iron
level of 0.88ppm. I do not remember the rest of the numbers. But the
water comes out with a brownish color and cloudy. It stains the tub
and toilet. Even replaced the hose to the rinser on the sink because
it was clogged.
The problem is that they have a water softening system. It's either
not working or it's not effective. The salt level never goes down,
according to them they haven't added salt yet since they moved in
because the level never dropped. I'm not sure how the system pulls
salt from the salt tank. But it's never wet inside. The main tank for
it is clearly running, it gets condensation on it from water running
through it. They don't know if it was maintained well or not. But
we're trying to figure out if it's even working right. If it needs to
be replaced, or was never the right thing that the past owners
installed in the first place. What could be wrong, what could they do
to get rid of the rust color? Any help would be appreciated. I can
try and supply any additional info if necessary.
Thanks,
Bill V.
If your test is accurate, you have very low iron so I would think your discoloration is coming from somewhere else.
Unfortunately, I don't have any suggestions as to where. You might take another sample down to a pool supply place. They'll usually test
for either free or very inexpensively and their tests are decently accurate. No point tackling something until you're certain of the problem.
Cheers,
cc
My suggestion is to dig out almost all of the salt and go to a water softener service company to buy their Rust Inhibitor salt. The salt chunks are bigger and are much less susceptable to creating a bridge, or solid mass. This bridging problem is why most folks are advised to never have the salt tank more than half full.
Your water softener controller should have a setting on it for manual regeneration. Turn the dial to that setting and wait. If you do not detect water flowing into the brine tank within 15 minutes, then the control head is damaged and may need to be replaced.
I lost a control head once due to a nearby lightning spike that also produced an enormous spike in water pressure. The resin containment strainer at the bottom of the pipe extending down from the control head ruptured and resin went to every water faucet, toilet, washing machine, etc in the house. Control valves everywhere had to be replaced. I now have a post water softener filter installed to address this problem.
Talking to a water softener specialist can also make certain that the resin installed is correct for the water condition.
A whole house filter in front of the water softener helps extend the life of the resin as silt, mud, salt are trapped by the filter. Even city water has this problem and 6 months of service will get an INCREDIBLY ugly looking filter (10 micron).
.
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