Re: well tank


Michael Strickland wrote:
On Sun, 09 Jul 2006 22:55:53 GMT, gg wrote:



have replaced my tank and prs. switch.got a 36gal well saver tank at HD,says
it does the work of a larger size tank.the switch is 40-60psi. it is
precharged and they say not to adjust air pres.But the pump kicks on very
often I can see that there is only a cpl. gals. in tank when it shuts off.
It seems to me that the tank has to much air prs. in it and the tank get to
60 lbs. with just 1.5 gal. of water in it and is almost empty at 40lbs. the
switch allows you to raise the cut in &out prs. witch should I do raise cut
in & out ,or lower air psr. in tank.the old tank had achart on it telling at
what air charge what the water volume available was this doesn't .is the a
standard used to set air pressure.I was thinking that the tank air prs. when
empty of water should be around 30lbs. I don't want the pump coming on every
time toilet is flushed ect.


My money says the pressure is too low - mine was precharged, don't recall to
what pressure, but it was much too low. This allows the tank to fill, but
only empty a little before the pressure dropped below the 40psi cut-in. What
happens (assuming 40/60 switch) is the tank fills and pressurizes the air in
the bladder to 60psi, you use water and the pressure drops, when the pressure
gets to 40psi, the pump cuts in, but the bladder hasn't expelled very much of
the water when the air in the bladder expands to the 40psi cut-in pressure.
As you probably guessed, the pressure in the bladder should be close to the
cut-in pressure - logic would dictate equal, but practicality dictates
otherwise.

Whatever the cut-in pressure is set to, the tank should read about 3psi less
for it to function properly - don't be to critical about this, but you don't
want to be equal or greater than, or much more below the cut-in pressure. I
highly recommend a compressor (one that plugs into the car cigarette lighter
is adequate) to add pressure - a manual bike pump will give you a good
workout before accomplishing your objective.

All tank pressure checks and changes should take place when the tank is
empty. Take a tire pressure gauge and measure the pressure in the tank. For a
40/60 switch, the pressure should be about 37psi, if it is less, go ahead and
bring it up to that pressure.

You should also check the water pressure after repressurizing the system (if
you don't have a gauge already on the water line, now is a good time to
install one) to make sure that your cut-in pressure matches the pressure in
your tank. Run some water until the pump cuts in and note the pressure. If
the cut-in pressure is equal or less than the tank pressure you set earlier,
it's now easier to adjust the pressure switch (shouldn't be much) than to
drain the tank and make adjustments there. Repeat the run water, check cut-in
pressure procedure after any adjustment to make sure you accomplished what
you wanted.

All of the switches I've seen are adjustable, look inside the cover for
instructions if the pressure isn't correct. Keep in mind that, unless the
cut-in and cut-out pressures are adjustable separately (I had a switch that
was this way but current one isn't), you will be raising/lowering both
pressures, so if you want a higher/lower cut-out pressure, you will have to
adjust the tank pressure to match the cut-in pressure.

HTH

Later, Mike
(substitute strickland in the obvious location to reply directly)
-----------------------------------
mNOSPAM3@xxxxxxxxxxxxx

Please send all email as text - HTML is too hard to decipher as text.

Good explanation and quite correct. Someone suggested that the old air
control valve might still be adding air into a bladder tank. Could
happen

Harry K

.

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