Re: Tinning Flux vs. regular flux for sweating copper

On Wed, 12 Apr 2006 21:35:50 -0400, "Proctologically Violated©®"
<physical@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Awl--

I've always used "regular" flux for sweating, but the wife brought home, by
accident, Oatey #95 *tinning flux*, which seems it might actually be a good
idea, perhaps helping solder flow into the joint by "pre-wetting" it a
little.
I also have the Oatey #5 regular solder paste.
Any opinions on which would better facilitate a fairly lengthy plumbing job
I have ahead of me?

Any other tips? For example, is emery better than steel wool for cleaning
joints? Is one solder better than another? etc.
I'll be using a prestolyte-type setup w/ an acetylene B tank, doing mostly
1/2", but also some 3/4, 1", 1.25".
I tend to be liberal w/ threaded adapters, for things like valves, check
valves, and other stuff, as I'm more comfortable w/ the threaded versions of
those, and have actually screwed a few up in the sweating process.

Also, any opinions on joint compound for threaded joints? I don't know if
it's cheap fittings or just me getting old, but I've actually had to use
plumber's string and dope to get rid of stubborn leaks. Someone recommended
RectoSeal, which I bought but have not used yet. Pretty expensive.

TIA.

I like the tinning flux...it flashes silver when the joint reaches
temperature so it helps me not overheat the joint. Other than that, I
don't notice much difference.

Personally, I prefer plumber's cloth to steel wool by far. And I
don't try to use a single piece for more than a few joints. It cuts
better when fresh, and it's cheap.

Other tips? Clean, clean, clean. After cleaning the pipe with
plumber's cloth or the fitting with an inside brush, I give it a quick
wipe with a clean rag to remove the grit and loosened grime. Then I
flux imediately. I don't like to leave cleaned pieces sitting around
for a long time before sweating them. I also like to clean the end of
the fitting. I think it helps the solder form a smooth fillet.

If you have a lot of fittings to clean, cut the handle off a fitting
brush and chuck it in a drill.

Take the time to remove the melted flux with a damp rag after the
joints cool. And a piece of scotchbrite pad cleans the joint up nice
after the wet rag.

Rectorseal's good stuff. Since I hate leaks, I use teflon tape AND
rectorseal on threaded joints. Tape first, then the dope. Haven't
had one leak in a very long time with that combo. But if you have a
big job, get over your tendency to go with threaded versions and
adaptors when sweat versions are available. It will save you a lot of
pieces and a lot of joints.

Good luck with your project.

Paul

.

Relevant Pages

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