Re: Not giving up just yet - Perhaps a Pro can help?
- From: "RBM" <rbm2(remove this)@optonline.net>
- Date: Sat, 3 Dec 2005 16:21:45 -0500
Jack, I understand your dilemma. The thing is wired in a peculiar fashion.
Normally a zone valve would be powered by a separate 24 volt transformer.
One leg of the 24 volts goes directly to the valve and the other leg is
broken through your series 80 (two wire) thermostat. When the zone valve is
completely open, there is an auxiliary switch (two red wires) built into the
zone valve that connect to the "TT" or T-TV terminals in the aquastat relay
to energize the circulator and burner. In your situation they used the
transformer built into the aquastat relay, to power the zone valve. The
infamous third wire you need would have to be connected at the aquastat
relay to either the T or TV terminal, but without an internal wiring diagram
of the relay, I can't tell which. Run the third wire and try each
"Jack Benimble" <noname@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:irdkf.143330$vw5.134756@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> RBM (or anyone who can help):
>
> Actually, it seems that the wire from the "W" terminal in the Aquastat
> is going directly to the thermostat. This is contrary to the wiring
> diagram, which indicates that the white wire which leads to the
> thermostat should be connected to the "T" terminal on the Aquastat.
>
> But the white wire from the "T" terminal on the Aquastat is connected
> to a terminal on the motorized valve. (See pictures)
>
> Should it be this way? It seems to work, but might you know why they
> did it this way?
>
> The motorized valve is a Honeywell. At the end of this message I have
> posted links to pictures of the valve and wires I have carefully
> labeled.
>
> You'll notice that there is a second motorized valve that seems to be
> unused. When I had some repairs done on the boiler, the technician
> mentioned that the system probably used to have 2 zones, but now both
> zones work from the one motorized valve... At any rate, all the rooms
> in my house get heat, so I guess it is working.
>
> You suggested: "If your thermostat wires are connected to terminals T
> and TV and you have a terminal marked W, connect your common wire to
> it."
>
> Is this correct advice? Even though the white wire to the thermostat
> is also connected to the W terminal? This may not be applicable anyway
> since my white thermostat wire is connected to the W terminal instead
> of the T.
>
> I just want to know for sure which is the common that I need to run to
> the thermostat.
>
> There is a short red wire (jumper?) between 2 terminals on the bottom
> of the motorized valve (see pictures). I carefully traced where all
> the wires lead (with the power shut off, of course) and carefully
> labeled everything in the pictures.
>
> The 5th picture is the electronic schematic of the motorized valve. I
> included it so you'll know what each terminal on the bottom end switch
> of the valve is. Some of the text in the diagram was washed out by my
> camera's flash, so I had to manually replace it in my image editing
> program.
>
> Can you tell me how I should proceed, based on these new pictures?
>
> http://server5.theimagehosting.com/image.php?img=Valve1.jpg
>
> http://server5.theimagehosting.com/image.php?img=Valve2.jpg
>
> http://server5.theimagehosting.com/image.php?img=Valve3.jpg
>
> http://server5.theimagehosting.com/image.php?img=Valve4.jpg
>
> http://server5.theimagehosting.com/image.php?img=Valve5.jpg
>
> If you need anything else, please let me know. I should also mention
> that I do have a multi-meter in case it can be used to test certain
> lines...
>
> Jack
.
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