Re: Squier CV 62 Tele test


"JimT" <jthread@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:JfudnbCIAp19YCLWnZ2dnUVZ_gadnZ2d@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

"Mark Bedingfield" <atari030@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:4bbff804$0$11705$afc38c87@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
On 10/04/2010 1:37 PM, JimT wrote:
"Mark Bedingfield"<atari030@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in
message news:4bbfe207$0$6278$afc38c87@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
On 10/04/2010 12:19 PM, Tony Done wrote:

"JimT"<jthread@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:t-idnXezgvfnRSLWnZ2dnUVZ_h6dnZ2d@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

"Tony Done"<tonydone@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
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I think Squires are for guys who like to buy cheap guitars and fix
them up.
Nothing wrong with that.


This is the golden age for modders/tinkerers. There is a huge choice
of good Asian-made guitars. Squiers are one of them - with the
traditional Fender look, if that is what you want.

Tony D


I tried it with a Warmoth strat body and a route 66 neck. My problem
was the strings didn't quite line up right. The Warmoth predrilled
holes for the trem are off a fraction. I need to fill the holes and
redrill. It's going to be tricky. I'll have to find a drill press and
buy one of those templates from stewmac

http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Tools/Special_tools_for:_Routing/Tremolo_Routing_Templates.html?actn=100101&xst=3&xsr=79


I might find someone to do it for me. The body and neck are killer,
it's just the holes. I'm not sure how I'm going to keep the screws out
of the old holes. Whatever I use to fill them it's going to have to be
hard. It's an ash body. I wonder if it would be better to use a two
pivot trem and bypass the old holes?


If you move the holes, is the trem block going to fit OK in its cavity?

I guessing that trem holes have to be just right to work properly, so
filling and redrilling would have to be done carefully. Redoing the
holes would not be difficult if the new ones don't overlap the old ones.
If they do, care would have to be taken to stop the drill bit slipping
sideways in the filler, as you evidently realise. After filling the
holes, I would probably make a drill guide from a piece of steel for the
six holes, drill one outside hole, use that to screw the guide down,
then drill the other outside hole from the guide, screw that end down,
then drill the rest of the holes with the guide firmly fixed in place.

Or use a 2-screw trem, which seem to me to be a better choice anyway -
though I'm no judge because I don't use a trem

I would use thin hard dowel rod for the filler, and drill the existing
holes to suit.

The trem position is critical, I'd leave it and dowel/re drill the neck's
screw holes as Tony suggests. Its not too unusual for them to be out a tad
between different makes and models.

As for trem's, I much prefer the 6 screw vintage trem's, the 2 screw US
ones are a tad to easy to bump and I play with my hand on the bridge
mostly. The 6 screws are harder to move and I'm not a huge whammy player
anyway.

Another trick mentioned here is to re drill and insert threaded bushes. A
bit more work but should be a good result.

Mark

Thanks Tony& Mark. I'll have to let that sink in. Oh well...I've got time.
In answer to your question Tony: Yes. It just needs to move maybe< 1/16
inch (I'm pretty sure you're metric? sorry) And I suspect the holes may
overlap. I have a two pivot on my dlx and I like it just fine so I'll
probably go that route. I may just take it to a luthier and have him do it.
I was just looking at warmoth and now they want over $500 USD for that body
with the finish. I think I paid something over $300 about 8 years ago. I
didn't realize the error until about 1.5 years ago and it's been sitting
ever since. I would of returned it if I knew to look. Funny thing was I
chose warmoth because they predrill the holes and I didn't have a drill
press. With their rep I was really surprised. I wonder how many people don't
notice or don't care. It bugs the hell out of me because the high e is too
close to the edge and it "falls off" (for lack of a better description.)

Mark: I'm not sure I quite understand: "I'd leave it and dowel/re drill the
neck's screw holes as Tony suggests." Of course the neck is in a pocket and
that would have to be rerouted and that doesn't seem like the way to go. If
I'm misunderstanding I'm sorry.

I think you might be, no need to be sorry tho.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xoFRAY_IShk

Sort of the basic idea. Remove the neck. Get some hardwood dowel and drill out the holes to the same diameter. THe glue the dowel into the holes. Let it to set. Fit the neck and install the two E strings to make sure its straight. Mark and re drill the holes. Screw the neck on and you are in business. Easy peasy ;-)

http://www.strat-talk.com/forum/stratocaster-discussion-forum/23915-how-do-i-drill-4-bolt-strat-replcement-neck.html

Here's some more basic discussion. Another thing, there should be some vertical play in the neck, just a tad, to help with positioning. I've had to do this twice and its been a pretty simple job, both times.

Mark


I think I get it but this pocket is tight. I guess I could sand the neck a bit to supply a bit of wiggle. Never thought of that.

Thanks

Jim


If the 1st string is too far from the edge of the neck, and the 6th string too close, that might be fixable just by wedging the neck downwards with a shim between it and the upper edge/open end of the neck pocket - but watch that you don't crack the finish off on the lower end of the pocket - been there, done that! My bitsa strat has a piece of plastic about 1.2 mm thick in that position to hold the neck in the correct alignment - and I knocked some paint off the lower edge in the process. Going the other way is more difficult because the long upper edge of the pocket limits movement in that direction. Something else I have done on the bitsa is stuck a piece of coarse abrasive paper on the bottom of the neck pocket with double-sided adhesive tape to stop the neck wiggling once it is in alignment.

Tony D

.

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