Re: Sanding and staining
- From: "Patrick Keenan" <test@xxxxxxxx>
- Date: Mon, 1 Feb 2010 00:26:48 -0500
"Daniel Dreibelbis" <dreibel@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:hk5clt$421$1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
On 2010-01-31 19:51:06 -0500, "Patrick Keenan" <test@xxxxxxxx> said:
The second issue has to do with applying the stain. The body has some
splints and nicks that need to be filled. I was thinking about using some
epoxy to fill in where necessary. However, I don't think that the water
aniline stain will be happy with the epoxy.
It won't be absorbed at all, and you'll get a light spot. You will not get a consistent stain, but then, stains applied to bare wood are often not consistent either.
See if you can get similar wood and fill with that.
check the local hardware store and see if they have plastic wood which is made from the same type of wood or a similar colour - LePages make some nice ones that come in tubes, and they're stainable.
also - to get a more consistent effect with the stain, use wood conditioner on the body - probably the most common one is the Minwax version in the red can.
This is really, really, not a good idea unless you've tested this thoroughly with the finish that will go over it.
Many readily available finishes will not adhere to oiled surfaces; even skin oils can cause adhesion problems, and the Minwax wood conditioner is an oil-based product.
If applied, it cannot be removed.
After brushing it on, wait 15 minutes for it to dry, you will then have a two-hour window to apply the stain.
and I would go with the advice of using the scrap wood to experiment on.
Essential for testing finish procedures.
Dan Dreibelbis, CGN (Cerified Guitar Nerd)
Current Songs - "Oh No! Not Blues Again!"
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