Re: Wiring to amps and equipment




"Sandpiper" <pcpodd@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:F7OdncFTkPrx7z3ZnZ2dnUVZ_sidnZ2d@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Hey Guys,

The studio is framed out and I'm running wire. Questions are, 14/2 or 12/2
wire to outlets for amps? Also, I'm not sure if this applies to house wiring
but in automotive wiring some of the wires are twisted to eliminate
interference. Would this help, hurt or not matter either way?

TIA,

Piper



12/2 solid core & 20 amp breakers (outlets)
14/2 solid core & 15 amp breakers (lighting)
(follow local codes)
These days romex cable is usually a different color for
each size, that's nice.
Home Depot sells a wiring book that explains just
about everything you'd need to know about simple
house wiring.

I wouldn't recommend trying to twist AC wires except
where they are wire nutted together.
Do make sure you use the correct size wirenuts and
spend a bit of time with scraps practicing twisting connections
and wire nutting.

Do not cross ground circuits. Think of everything as though
it's going to have a GFCI outlet and ideally the neutral and
the grounds are the same length back to the main box and
have only one path back. That helps eliminate gound loops and
AC noise.

Don't skimp on circuits, use 2 or more and wire outlets so every
other one is on a different circuit.
Look at a typical kitchen wiring setup on how they stagger outlets
and circuits.
Colored elec tape is good for marking each circuit and numbers
written with a sharpie help too.

Don't skimp on outlets in qty or quality,
I'd recommend the better- best outlets that wire up like a GFCI with holes
in the back and screw clamps. Screw clamps being the key, the wire is
left straight and goes in a hole and a screw clamps down on the wire.
They are so much easier to wire up it's worth the extra $1 per outlet.
Plus they have an extra set of connections that will eliminate haveing
to use extra wirenut connections in the boxes and allows you to easily
swap out GFCI's and regular outets if you ever decide to.
If you use the el cheapo's you need use the screw connections on
the sides and bend the wires like a question mark around the screws and
more wirenuts since you shouldn't put 2 wires under one screw.
Avoid using the spring loaded type connections on
the cheaper outlets, poor connections and a PITA if you have to remove
one later.

Carefully plan out your locations and wiring route before you start.

Oh and don't worry about being excessive..
Back a few years ago I helped build a out building for a friend.
Basically a 12 x 16 storage building for use as a shop and retreat.
Ended up putting 5 20 amp circuits and about 24 outlets, he thought I
was nuts. Outlets every few feet, both 12" off the floor and at more
of a bench level. He ended up loving it, on each wall he had all 4 circuits,
then one more circuit that was just for his window AC.
About half were GFCI protected.
On the lighting end we put in 2 15 amp, one ran various lights and the second
ran an exhaust blower and outside security lights. Exhaust fan mainly to
clear out the cigar smoke :)
Anyway he ended up loving it and actually wanted a few more outlets added.
It's incredibly quiet even though he's running a number of fluorescent fixtures,
window AC, mini fridge, fans, the occasional margarita machine etc..
A running joke is he has more outlets and power in his shed than
in the entire house.
In the end its better to spend more on wire and a few breakers and to have
each circuit only drawing a few amps each.

Do be very careful and if you don't full understand what you are doing
hire an electrician to at least to do a final check of your wiring and to
actually hook the wires to the main box.


.



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