Re: cabinet building questions
- From: "Phil_S" <psymondsnospam@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 21:17:40 -0400
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"Phil_S" <psymondsnospam@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:h9uiir$sc5$1@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxThe cab kit arrived from Parts Express today, so I set about putting it together and cutting a 2x10 baffle. I'll do a more complete post when I'm finished with it, but for now, I've got what I think are some gaffs and some problems due to the quality of the kit (or lack thereof).
The birch laminate is essentially two B sides and not at all furniture grade. I'll be putting some Merlot colored tolex-like stuff (faux leather type, nice stuff) on it that I found locally for about $10.50/yd along with an oxblood grill cloth I had lying around. This cab is glue and screw construction. (As it is trapezoid shaped, it would be a challenge to clamp, not impossible tho'.) The screws are the type you use to build a deck and I expected them to countersink themselves, but they didn't. I've got protruding heads. They are litterally squeaky tight and I don't want to break them off. Am I right in assuming these will show through the tolex?
I am thinking about backing out the screws after the glue dries. I don't know if I should replace them with dowels and glue, try to cut out short plug so I can countersink and cover with putty, or just discard them and figure the glue will do the work. Generally, I don't have much faith in screws that have been backed out and reset.
I also messed up one of the speaker mounting screws on the baffle. The drill slipped when my hand got a cramp (bad timing) and it went too close to the speaker cut out...actually, into the cut out. I applied expoxy and hope to redrill this after the epoxy hardens. I realize the horse is out of the barn, but I'm thinking that I should have cut a plug and glued it in rather than use epoxy. I could still do this after the epoxy dries.
In terms of the tolex, I'm thinking I'll wrap one large piece around the sides and back. Then cut separate top and bottom (trapezoid). Is there reason to do the sides and back as three pieces instead of one?
I've also got to deal with the problem of parts not lining up (not my mediocre craftsmanship either). I'm thinking that if I remove the screws and put in dowels, I can run the roundover bit on it, remove of a lot of headaches, and avoid the extensive use of putty. Good idea or is roundover a problem with tolex?
Even with the problems, this was still a pretty good deal. I'm way ahead timewise on a project like this.
Advice will be appreciated. Thanks.
well that's just crappy cabinet making.
for the good stuff:
Thanks for helping out. Jackass.
hey! you're the one making the cheap ass speaker cabinet. I'm just showing you how to do it right.
Let's I see if we can call a truce. I understand what you're getting at. I've seen the Safari site and the work is beautiful. I just can't get there with what's available to me. Yes, I go know how to do that kind of work and with unlimited funds and a bit of practice, I am fairly certain I could make cabs as nice. That's not a reality.
BTW, I do make very nice dovetail boxes to use as head cabs. Maybe I'll include a pic when I post the results on this one. I'll even have enough tolex left over to do a couple of the pine ones.
I don't think you understand my MO. I don't play out. I do this for recreation. I don't have a full blown wood shop with table saw, planer, etc. So, I improvise, and I like to do it on the cheap. PE sent a flyer with the ad for this POS box on the front and I bit. Heck, can you really get ripped off at $64? IMHO, no. I find the "group think" on the odd ball problems is helpful and maybe even entertaining to some who pass by here.
How 'bout just going with the flow? I don't have an ax to grind with anyone here, although, I do find many of the postings objectionable. I mostly keep that to myself.
You were right. I am jackass. There really is no "right way". I just remember how I got started and I came to the conclusion this was the easiest way for me.
Good luck with your problem. I'd just counter sink the hole; if I understand your description. If you can show pictures of your project.....
In the end, I chose to R&R the screws and countersink. I added a bit of glue where I thought they were loose, but most were tight on the second insertion. This was the path of least resistance.
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