Re: Amp Cleaning
- From: Jim <jim@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2009 21:04:37 -0800
Dave Curtis wrote:
On Fri, 30 Jan 2009 22:18:38 -0800, Jim <jim@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:
It was FILTHY. It is now very presentable, but far short of a museum piece.
Hi Jim,
I know you're probably finished cleaning, but I figured I'd post this
anyway for the benefit of the group. Below is an old post of Claude
replying to me on tolex cleaning, with updates included and marked
with "DC ---> "
**********************************
Newsgroups: alt.guitar.amps
From: clau...@xxxxxxxxx (Claude V. Lucas)
Date: 31 Jan 2008 01:55:24 GMT
Local: Wed, Jan 30 2008 8:55 pm Subject: Re: Another tolex question
Reply to author | Forward | Print | Individual message | Show original
| Report this message | Find messages by this author In article <5f72q3h3ah3e5ks9smc2ojldrc7khj0...@xxxxxxx>, Dave Curtis <dbaudiot...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
On 30 Jan 2008 20:44:13 GMT, clau...@xxxxxxxxx (Claude V. Lucas) wrote:
In article <47a0e15d$0$36380$742ec...@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, Claude V. Lucas <clau...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:What do you recommend for:a)Cleaning and conditioning Tolex on fender amps
Meguiars Vinyl & Rubber Cleaner/Conditioner
I used something like 409 or fantastic a couple of three times, with a small scrub brush. THEN diluted Dawn. THEN clear water.
THEN I used two samples of some snootier products that I got when entering my car in "shows" at a charity event. The first is an "instant detailer" that is suitable for use on anything (guys touch their vinyl, paint, engines... up at shows with this stuff. Then I followed with this brand's vinyl/rubber product. GREAT stuff, because it is NOT the "wet look" shiny crap. It just looks like nice tolex.
Silicone free...
Available at your friendly local auto parts emporium.
b)Removing paint from Tolex (I cant remember the product)
=======
DC ---> Some paint can be carefully (and tediously) removed with a
fine tip tool like a jeweler's screwdriver or my Leatherman knife
blade, which isn't extremely sharp. Slightly dull is good; you don't
want to cut. This is OK for smaller drops. For larger problems, try a
dab of Zip-Strip (or similar) in a safe spot (like under one of the
corners) to see how it'll affect the tolex. It's worked for me on the
few amps I've needed it for.
=======
Goof-Off, but check first for undesirable side-effects in a not-visible location.
What's wrong with musicians? This thing had little dots of blue paint on it (overspray). I got most of them off with various solvents on a Q-tip, then a duller dental tool.
The Peavey XXX that I picked up recently has some super fine white overspray on top that would not even be noticeable, expect for the totally clean spots where a cable was sitting!
To all musicians: BUY A FREAKIN' DROP CLOTH, ALREADY!
I never thought of zip-strip.
c) Cleaning the faceplates on blackface and silverface amps
Elbow grease, be careful with solvents.
The worst of the overspray came off of the face plate easily with plain rubbing alcohol and fingernail or guitar pick.
As is, it looks great from 6+ feet away.
=======
DC ---> Water first, mild soap & water next, then move to something
more aggressive. Goo-Gone is fairly mild and good for tape residue & a
lot of other stuff. Goof-Off will eat some plastics; beware.
=======
I've heard about Meguirs, haven't tried it.
=======
DC ---> I bought a bottle; Gel-Gloss cleans better, and doesn't leave
it as slippery.
=======
At the moment I'm cleaning up a real cruddy amp that sat in a basement for a spell (a Fender Yale Reverb). I use Gel-Gloss liquid diluted about 5:1 with water and a bristle brush like you'd use to scrub your hands. Work it in real well and wipe it off with a damp sponge. Rinse & wring out the sponge and wipe again. Towel dry. Chrome, too. I use it full strength on faceplates, but be careful of the silkscreening; it'll come right off old Ampegs and Gibsons (use mild soap & H20 first). Fenders are OK. You have to be careful on some metals, the stuff does polish and you might end up with some shiny spots where you rubbed some gunk off.
=======
DC---> It'll polish paint, too. Don't use it on flat-painted surfaces.
The best way to clean the faceplate is to remove it first. Be careful
if there's any crap around the holes; it can be pulled away and make
scratches. You might want to soak it in water with a little dish
detergent an then carefully brush any junk away from the holes. If
the soap & water doesn't clean it right up, use the diluted Gel-Gloss
on a slightly damp, soft, clean cloth. Set the faceplate on a flat
surface and very lightly clean in small circles evenly from one end to
the other. buff with a dry towel. You can do it installed, but it's
easier if the pots and jacks, etc. aren't in the way. =======
There's a bit of contact cement or something holding it in place. I was able to hammer out slight dents to much better condition when off. In fact, it was obvious that somebody rolled it with a cable plugged in, because it even tweaked the chassis at an input jack! But I got it 90% fixed.
I should have taken before/after px, bt Im 2 biz E...
I have a few, I may put a page up when I'm done.
.
=======
DC---> I've done another one since then, even cruddier:
http://tinyurl.com/dmnffc =======
Meguiars Vinyl & Rubber Cleaner/Conditioner *rules* for restoring old and/or faded Tolex/Vyanide. Makes it shine like new and is free of the eeevvvyyyllll silicone that pollutes most everything else.
=======
DC---> Even so, it's too slippery for my liking. IMHO, I like GG
better. I've heard Glass Wax is very similar. I haven't checked, but I
don't think they have silicone.
=======
Dunno if I'd use it on tweed or fabric without testing in a hidden spot.
=======
DC---> Same for the cheepie "contact paper" amps.
I had a '59 tweed vibrolux come in that had been painted haze gray,
after it had been bright red. It left haze gray.
http://good-times.webshots.com/slideshow/569870973yFrbSg
=======
Less than $10/jug at your friendly Auto Labyrinth.
======= DC---> I'll use it for the vinyl/plastic in the vehicles; it's got
sunscreen!
I've had good luck cleaning the cloth on removable grilles by giving
it a good spraying in the tub with Lysol Basin, Tub & Tile cleaner.
Let it soak in/use the hand brush, rinse and dry thoroughly (towel,
then a hair dryer or a warm sunny day). If you have grille cloth
attached to the baffle, you can use the same method, but you'll have
to remove the baffle. Be sure to dry it quickly in either case.
And while you have the amp all apart, wipe down the interior with a
damp rag. Careful of that tube chart!
-DC
=======
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