Re: BF Fender Champ - here we go again

In article <rc5v53pjmgs6v27bv05q2eqks3eiqun8tp@xxxxxxx>,
J.P. <jpasano@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Now, if I can get rid of that volume and tone pot static it will
be about finished. Any ideas? Can the high B+ cause that? J.P.

A couple of things (it's probably not the higher B+).

Dirty or worn out pots. Sounds like this isn't the case because you've
replaced them with new ones.

Any DC on the pot will also exacerbate scratchiness. This could come
from bad coupling caps or a conductive board. If you're REALLY into
tearing the thing apart, you can remove the bottom board, give it a good
scrub-bath in a solvent-based electronics board cleaner (NASTY, NASTY
stuff...do it outside and wear a carbon respirator if you have one), and
do the same to both sides of the upper board. If this is one of those
boards which is dipped in wax (I don't think the 66 was), you'll end up
with a REAL mess. A clean mess, but a mess nevertheless. :-)

It's also possible that the board has become hygroscopic. Cleaner won't
remove absorbed moisture, but a few hours in a 275 degree oven will. Of
course, this will involve a COMPLETE disassembly (removing wires and
especially caps) and subsequent reconstruction. A lot of work, but
sometimes it's necessary. Frankly, if it's just a matter of scratchy
pots, I wouldn't bother with it, but sometimes this can help cure nasty
parasitics and ugly distortion which you can't get rid of any other way.

WARNING: Make sure there's NO (repeat, NO) solvent residue before
putting it in the oven. (doh!)

Some day soon you'll want to undo that filter cap bundle and redo it
with a proper zip tie and maybe some hot-melt glue. Scotch tape won't
work worth a damn in a warm environment. Better still, get a 4x20/475
multisection twist-lock can from Antique Electronics, a big-ass
soldering iron and do it RIGHT. It's a 66, for gosh sakes; it deserves
a top-notch restoration.

Just my 2c.

--Mike

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Mike Schway | [Picture your favorite quote here]
mschway@xxxxxxx |
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