Re: Vibrover/6G16 tremolo/bias

"Phil S" <psymonds_no_spam@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in
news:wL-dnZiBC-gJEQLenZ2dnUVZ_t-dnZ2d@xxxxxxxxxxx:

>
> "Doggone" <running@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
> news:Xns972BC853526B0Flatnose@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>> "Phil S" <psymonds_no_spam@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in
>> news:mpOdnTVreeBbUgPeRVn-vw@xxxxxxxxxxx:
>>
>>>
>>> "Doggone" <running@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
>>> news:Xns972AF2673AB07Flatnose@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>>> <snip>
>>>> But if you decide to go blackface, the AB763 is rock solid. I rebuilt
>>>> a twin
>>>> reverb from a bare chassis two or three years ago and it turned out
>>>> excellent. Here's a link to my old web site with pictures.
>>>>
>>>> http://www3.sympatico.ca/zobotheclone/Twin
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I have since replaced the Eminence speakers with an old RSC 15"
>>>> speaker. BTW, I almost never use the trem.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> --
>>>> If it ain't broke, fix it till it is.
>>>
>>> Nice work. How do you manage the 18g filament wire on the 9-pin
>>> sockets? I always seem to get in trouble with it and resort to
>>> smaller wire. It's hard enough to get one set installed. Then a
>>> second set to jump to the next tube is just too much on those little
>>> pins. Are you using solid or stranded? I think my biggest obstacle
>>> is that I don't have anyone around to show me what to do. Thanks.
>>> Regards,
>>> Phil
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> Stranded.
>>
>> Some important points to keep in mind:
>>
>> 1) Do not twist the wires, they'll fit in the pin better and will
>> absorb solder better.
>>
>> 2) Use flux. Since there isn't a good mechanical bond between the
>> second wire
>> and the pin (explained below), the flux will help the solder secure the
>> connection.
>>
>> 3) Do not overheat the joint. The flux will burn, the wires will
>> oxidize, you'll have the dreaded "cold solder joint". Besides,
>> overheating a joint causes throat burn.
>>
>> 4) Use flux.
>>
>> Bend the pin outward slighly, about 10 degrees. Strip the first wire
>> aprox.
>> 1/4", dip it in or brush on liquid flux and insert it straight down
>> through
>> the hole. Strip the second wire at 1/8 to 3/16", dip it in flux and
>> slide it
>> between the first wire and the top of the pin. It doesn't have to go
>> through
>> the hole although some of the stands probably will. Hold the wires
>> together
>> while soldering. I use one of those clip-on soldering heat sinks from
>> RS. An
>> aligator clip will also work. Using a Weller 140 Watt gun (or
>> equivalent), apply a dab of solder to the tip (for heat transfer) apply
>> the tip to the outside of the pin whilst holding the solder wire on the
>> opposite side. Once
>> the solder starts melting, the standed wire will sucks it up fast.
>> Watch until solder reaches the second wire and the pin, remove solder,
>> remove heat.
>> At this point some solder will flow back down from the wires and cover
>> the pin. If you fed it too much, you'll have a large blob. You need to
>> suck that
>> out of there and start again by applying flux, heat and solder. You got
>> it right when the solder just lightly cover the wire and pins and the
>> solder has
>> slightly concave fillets.
>>
>> I remember in tech school, the subject of soldering was delt rather
>> lightly.
>> Most of us were left to figure out over time (trial and error) what
>> worked and what didn't. Hopefully, that's changed now. About 25 years
>> ago (already?), I attended a Pace High Reliability Soldering course. I
>> realized
>> then that soldering is an art and success depends on attention to
>> detail, and
>> practice. Lots of practice.
>>
>> I hope this explanation is not too simplistic. On the other hand,
>> (there's five more fingers) if you have more questions, shoot.
>>
>> And remember, flux is your friend.
>>
>> --
>> If it ain't broke, fix it till it is.
>
> I like that "flux is your friend", LOL! I'll have to buy some. (That
> tells you a thing or three in itself.) This is a very good explanation.
> I see that my approach -- I was convinced a mechanical connection was
> important -- was not the right one. Thanks for the short course and
> the encouragement. Regards,
> Phil
>
>

The school of good mechanical connection yield good results and was the
standard for many years. That's what I was taught in college. In actual fact,
mechanical contact is all that is necessary for a secure connection provided
the metal is clean, you use flux, the correct temperature yaddy yaddy yadda.

--
If it ain't broke, fix it till it is.
.

Relevant Pages

  • Re: Fast removal of FBTs Was: De-soldering ICs with a hot air gun.
    ... transformer using a paint stripper gun. ... I very rarely use this SMD technique for more than 16 pin DIL format but it ... Note the residual patterning in the solder, on the board, makes it a doddle ... Form a ring of silicone covered wire around the IC{to isolate the remaing ...
    (sci.electronics.repair)
  • Re: Making My Own Cable?
    ... The reaction of the flux melting will clean the wire as the flux is acidic. ... The heat will melt and draw the solder around and coat the wire. ... Apply a tiny smidge of flux to the pin where you want the solder to stick and touch the tinned wire and the pin together at that point. ...
    (comp.sys.apple2)
  • Re: Couple of noob questions
    ... > pin, got out the soldering iron, and made quite a mess. ... I find the best way is to not solder them at all by using DB connectors ... You strip the wire, crimp on the wire ...
    (sci.electronics.basics)
  • Re: Tips for soldering connectors to cables?
    ... beyond the end of the pin. ... enough that they just suck solder into the hole in the end. ... trim the end wire flush with the pin. ... is really nice to solder to and perfect for audio connectors since the ...
    (rec.audio.pro)
  • Re: Desoldering SOIC Chips
    ... What type of iron would you recommend? ... taking the solder pads w/ them. ... If you take a piece of thin single strand wire, such as rework wire, thread ... It will slide out from under the pin, taking any solder with it, and will ...
    (sci.electronics.repair)