Re: Vibrover/6G16 tremolo/bias

"Phil S" <psymonds_no_spam@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in
news:mpOdnTVreeBbUgPeRVn-vw@xxxxxxxxxxx:

>
> "Doggone" <running@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
> news:Xns972AF2673AB07Flatnose@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> <snip>
>> But if you decide to go blackface, the AB763 is rock solid. I rebuilt a
>> twin
>> reverb from a bare chassis two or three years ago and it turned out
>> excellent. Here's a link to my old web site with pictures.
>>
>> http://www3.sympatico.ca/zobotheclone/Twin
>>
>>
>> I have since replaced the Eminence speakers with an old RSC 15"
>> speaker. BTW, I almost never use the trem.
>>
>>
>> --
>> If it ain't broke, fix it till it is.
>
> Nice work. How do you manage the 18g filament wire on the 9-pin
> sockets? I always seem to get in trouble with it and resort to smaller
> wire. It's hard enough to get one set installed. Then a second set to
> jump to the next tube is just too much on those little pins. Are you
> using solid or stranded? I think my biggest obstacle is that I don't
> have anyone around to show me what to do. Thanks.
> Regards,
> Phil
>
>
>

Stranded.

Some important points to keep in mind:

1) Do not twist the wires, they'll fit in the pin better and will absorb
solder better.

2) Use flux. Since there isn't a good mechanical bond between the second wire
and the pin (explained below), the flux will help the solder secure the
connection.

3) Do not overheat the joint. The flux will burn, the wires will oxidize,
you'll have the dreaded "cold solder joint". Besides, overheating a joint
causes throat burn.

4) Use flux.

Bend the pin outward slighly, about 10 degrees. Strip the first wire aprox.
1/4", dip it in or brush on liquid flux and insert it straight down through
the hole. Strip the second wire at 1/8 to 3/16", dip it in flux and slide it
between the first wire and the top of the pin. It doesn't have to go through
the hole although some of the stands probably will. Hold the wires together
while soldering. I use one of those clip-on soldering heat sinks from RS. An
aligator clip will also work. Using a Weller 140 Watt gun (or equivalent),
apply a dab of solder to the tip (for heat transfer) apply the tip to the
outside of the pin whilst holding the solder wire on the opposite side. Once
the solder starts melting, the standed wire will sucks it up fast. Watch
until solder reaches the second wire and the pin, remove solder, remove heat.
At this point some solder will flow back down from the wires and cover the
pin. If you fed it too much, you'll have a large blob. You need to suck that
out of there and start again by applying flux, heat and solder. You got it
right when the solder just lightly cover the wire and pins and the solder has
slightly concave fillets.

I remember in tech school, the subject of soldering was delt rather lightly.
Most of us were left to figure out over time (trial and error) what worked
and what didn't. Hopefully, that's changed now. About 25 years ago
(already?), I attended a Pace High Reliability Soldering course. I realized
then that soldering is an art and success depends on attention to detail, and
practice. Lots of practice.

I hope this explanation is not too simplistic. On the other hand, (there's
five more fingers) if you have more questions, shoot.

And remember, flux is your friend.

--
If it ain't broke, fix it till it is.
.

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