Re: Need advice on installing heatsink.
- From: Paul <nospam@xxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 22:22:51 -0500
algae wrote:
On Dec 29, 9:31 pm, "Peter van der Goes" <p...@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:"algae" <garybo...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:48e4e5a9-97e2-4dd3-a36f-92acc9da1054@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Hi all,How are your temperatures? (CPU, Motherboard, ambient).
I just installed the stock heatsink on my new quad core 6600 on a P5K
MB. I had a lot of trouble getting all four of the fasteners to go in
correctly and after I finally got them in, I noticed a small amount of
thermal paste on my fingers even though I was being as careful as I
could when installing it. So that means there is some missing from
under the heatsink now.
Should I take it off again and add some paste? ( I don't have any
around but I'll get some if I have to).
Any opinions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Gary
If you are running reasonable temps under load, leave it alone.
Haven't started it up yet. I still have to get a video card and hard
drive. It's been a work in progress for a while but I'll finish it up
within a week or so and see.
At what temp. would you be concerned?
Thanks
Gary
Intel processors have two levels of thermal protection. Throttling
occurs at the first over temperature point. The processor reduces the
effective clock rate, in an attempt to keep the temp below 70C. This
reduces performance, and is to be avoided.
The second over temperature point is THERMTRIP. The processor sends that
signal at maybe 20C more than the throttle temp (whatever it happens to be).
The computer should promptly shut off when it happens (no warning, software
is not alerted etc).
So the processor is fully protected. It is up to the user, to provide
enough cooling, so that the processor is fully functional.
The paste volume applied at the factory, should be enough to guarantee
that the gap between heatsink and processor has no air in it. It helps,
if the edge of the joint is "wet" with paste, as that proves it is
being squeezed out. The paste should be as thin as possible, yet not
introduce any air. If applying paste by hand, that means you need to
apply just a little bit more than the minimum amount.
To judge the right amount of paste, you can put a half-rice-grain sized
dot of paste on the CPU, then squish the heatsink into it. Use the
fasteners to simulate a complete assembly. Then disassemble again.
There will be a pattern to the paste. You will see a nice circle. If
the grain wasn't enough, the circle will be small. If the sample
of paste was too much, you'll see it ooze out. Once you've ascertained
the right quantity, wipe things clean, and do a "final" application.
You want to use a little more than the bare minimum, so that the
joint is "wet" when you're finished tightening the fasteners (push
pins in this case, but may be levers or screws if using an aftermarket
cooler). I'm still using the same tube of Arctic Silver, so a little
can go a long way if not abused.
Paste ceases to be effective, if air is being trapped between the
heatsink and processor. You can watch the processor temperature, when
the CPU is loaded to 100% with a test program, to judge whether the
paste situation is good enough or not. For example, if you had a
Q6600, overclocked to 3GHz, that draws on the order of 146W or so
(assumes a bit extra Vcore), so that would be an example where the
most scrupulous and careful application is required. If you had a
non-overclocked E6600 at 65W, then you can probably be quite careless
in the application of paste or other types of TIM.
I like to assemble the heatsink, while the motherboard is outside the
case. As long as the opening for the motherboard in the case is
big enough, the motherboard plus heatsink can be lowered into place.
Doing it that way, you have an excellent opportunity to check that
the thing is properly fastened. (You can even check the back of the
board and look at the push pins from the back.) It is much harder to
tell, if fitting the heatsink while the motherboard is inside the
computer case. YMMV of course. Dropping the finished motherboard
into place is only possible, if the opening on the side of the case
is unrestricted. Some cases have a stiffener bar, which is riveted
into place, and that can get in the way.
When working on the PCB, try to make sure the motherboard is always
supported from the bottom, when pressing on it. You don't want to
bend the board when it is unprotected. Bending can cause broken
solder joints.
Paul
.
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