Re: M2N32-SLI Premium Vista won't post



Angry_American wrote:
"John" <John@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:x_SdnS489or_aujbnZ2dnUVZ_g-dnZ2d@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

Since some questions were raised in other posts, I'll add this piece to describe what I'm doing.

First, I think I know the basics. I have been doing computer hardware for thirty years now. This will be my third PC build. I imagine some would consider me a wierdo for the lengths I go to prevent static discharge problems, but I started before they discovered how to make static resistant plastic bags. The techies always complained that 1-2 out of 3 shipments in plastic bags arrived DOA. They insisted that the crew at the other end didn't test the boards before they shipped. But they had.

Since writing the original post, I contacted a neighbor who runs a small shop selling almost the same system I built. He reviewed what I had done and couldn't add anything, but said he would come over with another Asus board and see if that worked. I could then use my CPU to verify it. I'm hoping to hear from him again Monday.

He laughed when I told him I worked my way up to a 1000-watt PSU. I said I started with a 600-watt unit. He said he builds units with 380-watt PSU, but I don't think he sells 8800 SLI GPUs with them. An Asus tech said they'd like to see 35A for either the 3.3v or 5v rails, I forgot which. Nearly all SLI-Ready PSUs used 30A for both rails. I lashed out at him because the only public thing I saw before I bought my first PSU was the "SLI Ready" sticker. After (note the word "after") I bought it and put the system together, I discovered those nicely-hidden sites that gave you the rest of the story, but which were apparently grossly out-of-date. I never did see anything about this 35A. rail requirement. Before I bought the MB and the PSU, I downloaded Asus' manual and scoured it for info on selecting the PSU. There was nothing there. Thanks, Asus. After I bought it, then they told me.

Anyway, what I wound up with is a 1000-watt OCX SLI Ready. It has 30A. for the 3.3 and 5v rails, but I didn't know what else to do. I am now using it with my old system. I'm trying to figure out how to disable the four blue lights that come on when you run it. And I don't like how far some of the rails are from ideal. They really like to ride the rim of the +/- 5% spec variation. I remember years ago that Control Data, who supplied disc drives for my DEC machine, said the 5v. had to be off no more than 4.9v., if I remember the numbers correctly. Anyway, how times have changed!

The 1000-watts will only come in handy if I upgrade my system to a 4-GPU SLI system, which there ain't no way . . . Or, if my natural gas stove goes out, I can fry an egg on the PSU. Seriously, it isn't that bad. While running on my old system, my ammeter shows the power draw is only about 1.2A now.

With the PSU running under my old system's load, the voltage drop at 5v was barely different from the no-load value, so that seems strong enough for now. If I get this thing up, I'll test it again with my new 8800 GPU. That will be a better test.

I'd like to discuss trying various things with RAM, but remember, I don't get the first beep out of the board with nothing on it. Adding CPU, memory, etc. doesn't change that.

With this setup (the MB laying on the mat),

John, I just picked up this thread, so if my comment does not apply please ignore it. I noticed you mentioned above that the MB was 'laying on the mat'. What kind of mat is it? Are you sure it's made of non-conductive material. If it is of material that is conductive, such as the foam pad from the Asus box, it will cause the power supply to automatically shut off as soon as it senses a short. Therefore, no beep, LEDs, nothing.

Hobo




the only cables that
matter are the PSU, the speaker, and the power switch leads. The PSU uses the 20-pin connector for my old MB successfully, so that connector seems to work. Since I've worked my way up through a 600-watt, then an 850-watt PSU before getting to my 1000-watt PSU, I've tried the full set of MB connectors with those PSUs. That doesn't mean they all work, but I know the 20-pin works with my old system.

I played around with the power LED and the HDD LED and found they are like diodes and only work one way. The speaker doesn't care, but I wonder why they have a four-pin speaker connector that is only wired on the two outer connectors. The speaker works with my old system, but the same speaker is silent with the Asus MBs.

Now, Sonja has a working AMD X2 6000. I have read several who have 6000 systems which all seem to work, but I would still like to hear from someone with a 5200. I don't understand what there is about the chip that makes the speed vary, but I am guessing that they make the chips, then test their speed and sell them at the speed they test at. I don't know, only guessing. It's the only way I can understand them having 5200, 5400, 6000, etc. To design each of them doesn't sound reasonable to me. My friend says it is very unlikely that the CPU is at fault, and I couldn't get a beep even with no CPU. I'm starting to get concerned about taking the CPU and its fan apart: the grease is getting too close to the pins for my comfort. Taking the CPU off the heatsink isn't easy and it's very messy.

So, after my friends tries another MB, I'll call Asus again. But I'd still like any comments you have.


I have built several machines using this board, my personal machine has the WS Professional version with the 5200 and no problems whatsoever. I have not run into a single problem with any of the boards in this line from Asus. I use 450watt PSU's for non gaming machines and PC Power and Cooling 510watt or better for the gamers. I also use standard Kinston 533mhz value ram on the non gaming machines, 800mhz Kingston value ram on the low end gamers, and Corsair XMS 800mhz or better ram for the high end gamers. The boards are extremely well built with high end components and from what I have experienced damn stable. You probably will not get any beeps without a CPU, but it should scream like a banshee with no ram installed, and cpu installed.

If I were in your shoes I would be looking at memory or CPU, that's about all you haven't tried from what I have read. Boot the system with a single stick of RAM, CPU, and PSU, nothing else. The CPU fan should come on as well as the power LED located at the upper right hand section of the board. Once you are successful, then add your video card, kb, mouse, and boot up to see what the monitor has to show you.

Dan


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