Re: Good Site for Overclocking Info

In article <440291e0$0$30909$5a62ac22@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>,
"DRS" <drs@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Paul wrote:

[...]

Once you understand a little bit about the fact that there
are separate multipliers/dividers for CPU core, Hypertransport
bus, and memory clock, you can give this settings optimizer a try.

One thing I noticed when I ran the copy of nTune that came with my
motherboard was it gave a warning that my PCI bus speed was a multiple of my
HT bus and that overclocking the latter was potentially harmful to the
former and that nVidia Would Not Be Responsible For The Consequences. Can
the PCI and HT buses be uncoupled on ASUS motherboards? (Mine is an A8N-SLI
Premium).

Another, completely unrelated question, but you seem the sort of person to
ask. :-)

My Antec P160W case has two cables with temperature sensors on cables
attached to the LED display at the front of the case. I'd like to monitor
my CPU and GPU temps but I have no idea where to attach them (safely). Any
thoughts?

Post #24 mentions the use of Ntune. I think this thread is about
the Deluxe.

http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.php?t=364790

"PCI Lock Bug:
EDIT: FIXED! See post #24 below
To lock the PCI lock on your board, all you have to do is make
sure you have bios 1003 final or newer and then set your FSB
in the bios to 201 or higher. Your lock will then be set.
Another alternative since bios 1007 is to set the PCI to
33.3MHz in the frequency menu and NOT to CPU."

------

If Ntune can give you a readout of the CPU diode temperature
and the GPU temperature, then that would be preferable to
a separately installed digital thermometer.

The problem is, the difficulty in getting the sensor close
enough to the thing to be measured. In an Intel document,
they milled a slot in the heatsink, that is big enough to
fit a pair of wires with a thermocouple on the end. The
thermocouple is cemented to the die. The whole thing is well
past anything you can accomplish with hand tools.

Sandwiching a flat thermal sensor between a heatsink and
a silicon die, guarantees a bad contact between the heatsink
and the silicon die. The silicon die will overheat, and you'll
be worse off than you were before.

If the sensor was a tiny bead, it might be placed to the side
of the silicon die, with a tiny dot of heatsink paste to
improve contact. But I expect your digital thermometer has
the flat sensor, that is intended to be laid on top of
something (like a disk drive), and not to the side of it.

I realize that the accuracy of the sensors that come with
hardware are not that good. And it is tempting to use a
separate gadget, to get a better quality reading. If I really
needed to improve the quality of the CPU temperature readout,
I would disconnect the hardware monitor chip from the CPU diode,
and find some other kind of device to read out the diode. I think
one of the Intel motherboards, uses a sensor chip that has an
improved diode readout method. And I would trace down who makes
the chip, and get a data*** for it. (Basically, the "two
current" method allows some of the systematic errors to
cancel out. I think AMD claims the CPU diode will give you
a temp reading +/- 7 degrees, when using the proper measurement
method, but Asus does not use that method. The Winbond and
ITEusa chips use the single current method, followed by a
fixed table lookup, which is just about the worst way you
could do it. The AMD processor has a correction factor stored
in the processor, and it is hard to say whether any software is
applying the factory correction properly. )

So, if you had the right kind of sensor, and it was thinner
than the silicon die, you could lay it next to the silicon die.
But you have to be absolutely certain the wires or the sensor
don't prevent the heatsink from touching the die with the full
force of the spring clip.

I own a digital thermometer with two sensors. The sensor type
is that flat sensor, and it is good mainly for stuff like
hard drive temperature. (You have to be careful not to bend
the flat sensor type, as that ruins the calibration.) I also
have a small bead thermistor, (Radio Shack 271-110A, no longer
stocked), that can be touched to the side of stuff, and read
out with an ohmmeter. Apparently there are smaller beads
than the one I've got, but I've never located any product
that interested me enough to buy it. I would need a bead,
with an R_25 (10K ohms) and beta value (3435) suitable for
use with motherboard thermistor readouts, and I haven't seen the
combination of a good form factor and the right parameters.
The Asus P2T cable (and aftermarket imitations) is basically
what I would be looking for, only smaller.

Something like this might be thin enough (0.45mm). But you'd
need a microscope, in order to see to solder wires to it :-)
And considering the clumsiness of hand soldering, you'd want
to select a special low temperature solder, to prevent damage
to the device, from heating it for extended periods.

http://www.thermometrics.com/assets/images/nhqt.pdf

Now these are tiny! I wonder if you can buy these at
Digikey ?

http://www.thermometrics.com/assets/images/b050710.pdf

The problem with those thermistors, is if you just want
to read the resistance with an ohmmeter, it doesn't matter
what parameters the part has got. It'll work. But if
you want to connect it to a digital thermometer, and
thus get an automatic readout in degrees C or F, then
R_25=10K ohms, and beta = 3435 is what you need. At least
motherboard monitor chips expect that kind of
thermistor.

Paul
.

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