Re: Ulka pump replacement
- From: "Ken Fox" <morceaudemerdeThisMerdeGoes@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Tue, 28 Feb 2006 11:00:22 -0700
"dookie" <dookie@~obvious~dooksucks.com> wrote in message
I believe the pump in my ~28-month-old Zaffiro is about shot. Please tell
me if this sounds like the right diagnosis given these symptoms...
- ~2.5 yrs old, generally used to pull 1 or 2 shots almost every day, left
on most of the time
- pressure gauge slow to reach 9-10 bar during pull, if it gets there at
all...often won't pass 5-6 bar (grind/tamp/beans unchanged). used to get
there quickly and consistantly
- takes forever (60+ sec) to produce water again after steaming. used to
take 10-15sec. and be much more forceful
I've done a bunch of Google Groups searches on alt.coffee, but I still
have some ?'s...
I understand it has a 52W Ulka vibe pump. Every vendor has their own
story about replacements. I have to believe the 52W was OEMed for a
reason? 41W is reputedly noisier, otherwise equivalent? Are there
quieter/longer-lived replacements available (Fluidotech? Cosmec? Rotary?)
that will fit in the existing case?
I think the 41W Ulka has either been phased out or become a lot less common
since the 52W version came out; I don't think it is necessarily a cheaper
pump or that the mfrs. have been using it for cost saving reasons. Recently
I replaced the original 10 year old 41 watt ulka in my pourover Cimbali
Junior with a 52W pump and they are the same size and appear to have the
same build quality and functionality, although perhaps the 52W version is
quieter. I don't think you will find another replacement pump for your case
nor is there any point in bothering looking for one; the Ulka is the
standard pump for your machine.
I'd expect more than 2.5 years, low volume service out of that pump.
Certainly it could have failed and your observed problems might be explained
by pump failure. Alternatively, there could be issues with your plumbing
and perhaps the way your Overpressure Valve is set. I would unplug the
machine, take off the case, then plug it back in to a GFCI socket and
CAREFULLY observe how everything looks when the pump is actuated, and
actuated with a blind filter (for backflushing) in place. Obviously, the
innerds of the machine are electrically live so you will have to exercise
caution or we might read about you in the paper. Check out the OPV in the
machine and see how it is set.
In my mind the most likely explanation is pump failure but I'd want to rule
out other component failures first. Have a look at how the solenoid valves
are functioning, for example, as these are more likely to fail in a 2.5 year
time frame than is that Ulka pump.
- Ulka pump replacement
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