Re: Should I PID my Heat Exchanger?

Hi Jack,

Comments interspersed:


"Jack Denver" <nunuvyer@xxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:xJ-dnf79_7pHREXenZ2dnUVZ_s2dnZ2d@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Thanks for all the graphs, but could you post some details about the nuts
> and bolts aspects so that others (ahem, such as me) could do the job in 5
> hrs instead of 25 ? - where did you get the project box,

I ended up buying several boxes (they are cheap and I thought maybe I'd redo
the rotary as an on machine install later). The box I actually used I
bought at a Frys in San Diego, but you can buy the same box and many other
similar ones from mouser.com; you can also buy some thermal paste and a
cheap plastic cover for your relay there. I bough a couple of different
types of very short screws at a Home Depot. The exact box you would use
would depend on where you would put it and how much room you have. Knowing
the dimensions of your PID will allow you to select something appropriate.


how did you cut the
> opening for the PID,

I started out with some drill holes, drew the outlines of the plastic mount
that ships with the Fuji and drew the outlines on the box front I was to
nibble out. Then I nibbled it. I like to work with thin aluminum, it is
more "elegant" and at the same time easier to work on (in my view) than
plastic.

how did you bring power into the PID (a separate line
> or poaching off the main power switch)

The latter, I stole the power off the rotary power switch which is
accessible in my machine in the under tray electronics/electrical box. This
way, it is switched, and is only on when the machine is.

, did you fuse the PID
no, I've not heard of others doing this, but the machine is plugged into a
surge supressor in the wall, in a GFCI, for what little good that would do.

>, what kind of connectors & wire did you use,

16 gauge unstranded copper wire for the power to the controller and the
power out to the low power side (switching side) of the relay; I used 14
gauge stranded copper wire for the high power side of the relay switching on
the element. The pstat was removed, and the controller substitutes for
that, so I just had the two high power ends off the Sirai to extend to the
high power side of the relay. Some may question the safety of removing the
pstat. I do not. There is a pop valve in the boiler and the element has a
high temperature thermostat switch on it which will cut off power to the
element if there was some sort of pop valve incident resulting in not enough
water in the boiler. Also, this is a pourover, which limits the amount of
water damage one could get.


etc., etc. ? Special emphasis on what NOT to
> do - all the dead ends that you will turn into unless someone flags you
> down before you make the wrong turn.

Whatever project box you get, be sure that you can access the wires you need
to access. On the Fuji, these are all at the bottom with the controller
right side up. I think "strain relief" devices of some sort are necessary
at the exit of the wires from the project box, where they come out of the
controller, Make sure you have appropriate sized holes drilled there that
will enable you to both exit the wires out with strain relief, and will also
have access to tighten the screws coming out of the controller which will
hold the wires in place. Don't use stranded 16g or other wire size for the
wires going into the controller; they are a bitch to work with and will
drive you nuts. I ended up having to replace all the wiring with the solid
copper stuff to get it done.
>

Hope this helps, here are a couple of additional photos that may be of
interest:

the bottom of the machine, with wiring all taped to the case; the wire is
running through wire conduit, but I wanted everything flush up against the
case to prevent damage when it is moved and also in the case that I want to
attach the drain line for plumbing in the drip tray:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v429/kfoxfoie/S1PIDBottom.jpg

the probe in the boiler, using the port that the pstat line used to come out
of. The probe is about 3" long and well into the boiler steam column:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v429/kfoxfoie/S1PIDprobeinboiler.jpg

The most important thing is to think this whole project out before you drill
the first hole. More thought than I put into it at the outset will save you
time later.

ken





.

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