Re: All right, so I need my hand held

Buck Turgidson <deppitybob@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

>In article <hhqci19di54t5601euqf3kr3lpmalk1fve@xxxxxxx>,
> Barry Jarrett <barry@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
>> On Tue, 13 Sep 2005 05:33:04 GMT, Marshall
>> <mrfuss@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>>
>> >Leave the head alone. Turn a short screw into the gasket. Then grab
>> >hold of the screw head with a pair of pliers and pull.
>> >
>>
>> or run the screw all the way through the gasket until the gasket
>> starts to pull away from the head (and usually breaks). then lever
>> out the gasket with a narrow screwdriver.
>>
>> --barry "wood, deck, or sheet metal screws work best"
>
>Quick question: won't the business (pointy) end of the screw damage
>whatever is on the other side of the gasket?
>
>

The damnage is usually minimal, but here's what I do to avoid that.
First, start a small drywall screw in until it just stops. Remove that
screw. Now use another screw, at least one or maybe two sizes larger
and file/grind/cut the end off. Now use the hole made with teh first
screw and run this one in. If the gasket does not begin to move when
the screw meets the brewhead, give the screw a careful pull (barked
knuckle warning goes here). If it pulls out the reinsert it and use it
as a lever to pry at and break the gasket. Very mild, hard gaskets may
have to be treated thusly at three or four locations around its
circumference, or repeat the process above every two or three
millimeters in one location until that section of th gasket spearates
and the gasket can be prized out, sort of like changing a bicycle
tire.

Randy "BTDT" G.
http://www.EspressoMyEspresso.com


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