Re: O2 Sensor Problem Again
- From: "davejohansen@xxxxxxxxx" <davejohansen@xxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2007 15:31:38 -0000
The Haynes manual said that the resistance of the heater circuit
should be between 11 and 17 Ohms, and the resistance on the one I just
installed was 10.2.
Also, when I gave it a little gas and held it just above 1500 RPMS the
output voltage was jumping around a lot (seemed to be between .2 V and
1.5 V but it was really hard to tell). Earlier qslim siad that that
was just the normal wave type of output, but it shouldn't be over 0.9
V.
So does it look like the most likely solution is just that part is bad
and I need to get another one?
Dave
On Jun 30, 8:17 am, "Jeff Strickland" <c...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
<davejohan...@xxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:1183183938.597811.52030@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Thanks everyone for all of the responses and here's my answer to each
of your questions/comments:
Ph@boy said "Try swapping sensors":
I can't swap the sensors, because the connectors are different, but I
did the same test that I described previously on the pre-cat sensor
and it checked out just fine.
The sensors (Bank 1 Sensor 1, and Bank 1 Sensor 2) do different jobs, and
they can not be swapped. You could swap the sensors in the case of Bank 1
Sensor 1 and Bank 2 Sensor 1 becasue the Bank 1 and Bank 2 (Sensor 1) do the
same job on different banks of cylinders, but Sensor 1 and Sensor 2 are in
different parts of the exhaust system (before or after the CAT), and do
different things.
High Tech Misfit said "Bosch OEM... that is an oxymoron":
I realize that it's a semi-misuse of the term, but I was just trying
to refer to the fact that it's not a "universal" O2 Sensor that
requires splicing the connector.
Jeff Strickland said "Your trouble is NOT the output of the sensor,
it's the sensor's 'pre-heater'":
So does that mean that the O2 Sensor that I got is defective?
Basically, what do I need to do to fix the problem?
Also, on a side note, the Haynes manual says that the code P0141 is
set when the O2 Sensor reaches 600 degrees (or has run at least 2
minutes) and is not outputting 0.7 Volts.
I don't know what the resistance spec is for the heater element, but your
heater is not working. Logic says the heater should be essentially a short,
there will be some resistance, but the number will be low -- the range of an
ohm or two -- not high.
The Haynes manual says that the after a time or a temp, the output should be
X. My guess is that the time period is elapsing, and if I am right then the
heater will not reach 600. I suppose you could measure the output for 0.7
after 2 minutes, or even longer. I do not suppose the sensor will attain 600
in only 2 minutes unless it has a heater. If the output is able to get to
0.7 after any amount of time, then you can be pretty sure the sensor is
working, but you still will be facing a broken heater and the sensor will
need to be replaced again if that is true.
You could check the heater circuit to see if it is even getting power. I
suspect the circuit works or the fault code should be different -- I'd
expect a code for circuit integrity, and another for component function, but
I'm not up on all of the codes and do not know for certain that there are
two different codes ...
Personally, I'm surprised that the Bosch part has failed. I've used them in
several applications on my own fleet of cars and trucks, and have always
been satisfied with them.
Everyone, thanks again for all of the help,
Dave
On Jun 29, 4:01 pm, "Ph@Boy" <u...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
davejohan...@xxxxxxxxx wrote:
I had previously posted about the code P0141 with the O2 Sensor (the
post-converter one) in my 97 Geo Prizm. You can see the posts here:
http://groups.google.com/group/alt.autos.toyota/browse_thread/thread/...
I ended up returning the universal part and getting the OEM one (it
was definitely worth the extra $50), but now the problem is that I
cleared the code and it came back after driving for about 20 minutes.
I checked the output voltage from the O2 Sensor and it was around
40-50 mV after the car had been running for about 10 minutes (the
manual said that it should be between 100 and 900 mV). I then tried
giving it a little gas and letting it idle just above 1500 RPMs and
the output was jumping around like crazy (the manual says that the
output should not change actively and should be fairly constant
between 100 and 900 mVs).
Does anyone have any ideas of what could be wrong? Is the catalytic
converter messed up?
Thanks,
Dave
Try swapping sensors. The sensor after the converter basically monitors
the performance of it. Did you check the condition of the front sensor?
It needs to be clean with no powdery build up. The way you describe the
millivolt reading, you may have a bad connection to the sensor itself,
so it sets the code repeatedly. Just a thought.
.
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