Re: 2000 Corolla new stereo getting engine (alternator?) noise
- From: Hachiroku ハチロク <Trueno@xxxxxxxx>
- Date: Tue, 06 Mar 2007 16:29:59 GMT
On Tue, 06 Mar 2007 06:29:12 +0000, MD99 wrote:
Thanks again. I didn’t see any prior post asking whether the noise was
from both CD and radio? But...the answer is yes...as well as from the Aux
input. I have a satellite receiver hooked up to the Aux input. The same
noise is present regardless of the input. I’m pretty sure I’ve
troubleshot by disconnecting the speakers one at a time at some point,
with no difference. The speaker wires are routed up through the tops of
the door frames so there is no other wiring present to be causing
interference. The noise is present through all the speakers. This is the
3rd Amp I’ve had in and the second head unit, with no change. I’m
convinced it’s engine electrical interference being picked up by the head
unit and then amplified through the speakers. I’m curious...why do you
think the ignition coil wouldn’t fix the problem? It is a "ticking" type
of noise, in time with the engine timing...
Well, you've done your homework! I would still ground everything to the
same point.
Note that I wrote the rest of this and added this later...what are you
using for ignition parts? Genuine Toyota? You describe spark plug noise,
this can be caused by the plugs, wires or cap and rotor. Since Ray
mentioned something about coil packs, what are you using for plugs? I use
NGK R-Type (not "R" as in 'ricer'(sorry...) but "R" as in Resistor) If
you're using Split-Fire or any of those other supposed 'hot' plugs, trash
them and use NGK or Nippon-Denso.
OK, now onto the rest of my "Best Guesses"...
The only other thing I can think of, and I have never tried it because a
little noise doesn't bother me (and, I don't have the snapping sound
you're describing...now) is to try a cap on all the inputs. I think these
things are bling, too, but what you're describing is an AC type sound (as
opposed to DC) and the job of a cap is two-fold: it provides 'hold-up'
during large voltage spikes, but also, a cap with the + side tied to a DC
power source and the - side tied to ground passes AC 'noise' to ground (A
capacitor used as a filter passes AC and blocks DC). I don't know if this
will do it, and large caps are expensive, but for the amount of current
you'll be passing to ground you can use something like a 10 Microfarad. Or
get some of those toroidal choke coils at Radio Shack and wind the power
wires to it.
It also help to isolate where it's coming from. This is going to be a
pain! You'll have to connect the speakers to the head unit, bypassing the
amps and see if it goes away. Then add the amps back in and see if it
comes back. You said you put a filter on the head unit; try one on the
amps.
Also, check with a local stereo shop. They may have seen this in this car
before and have a quick solution for it.
I *HATE* this problem, since there are so many variables it's hard to
determine what will fix it. I would still start by running all the grounds
together, and then work from there.
At least when this guy posts, he makes it a toughy!!! ;)
Again, if you resolve it, let us (or at least, me!) know! I've been doing
car stereo installations for about 25 years, and only had this problem
once...(and can't now remember the solution...)
"MD99" wrote:
> Figured I'd post to see if anyone has any suggestions other than what
> I've tried already. Installed a new stereo system in 2000 corolla.
> New Pioneer head unit, component blaupunkts in the front, polk audio
> speakers in the rear, profile amp driving the four speakers, another
> profile amp driving a Dual subwoofer box with 2 12" subs. Am getting
> engine noise (whine, gets louder and faster as engine accelerates). I
> have regrounded my amps to the chassis with a very tight connection and
> 12 guage ground wire, scraped all paint away to bare metal - have tried
> different ground points. Put in new battery with 2 guage ground strap,
> scraped to bare metal ground point - head unit is grounded to chassis
> same as battery point, but have tried different points. Have upgraded
> to top-grade twisted pair, oxygen free 12 gauge speaker wire, rerouted
> speaker wire up through top of doors in panels, no other cabling is
> near, upgraded signal (RCA) cables to top-grade rockford-fosgate
> braided cables for optimum noise rejection, also routed up through top
> of door panels away from any other cabling - power cable to amps runs
> down through center of car underneath carpet - have tried running power
> to amps directly from an outside battery - no difference, have run
> power to head unit directly from battery bypassing wiring through
> firewall - no difference. My next step is to replace the spark plugs
> and possibly the alternator itself. Any thoughts?
> Suggestions? Thanks
.
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