Re: Corolla coolant temp?
- From: "Danny G." <dandog@xxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sat, 19 Aug 2006 08:44:58 GMT
"Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote in message news:8f24a$44e69141$47c97f29$26858@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
<hammo@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message news:1155955066.398489.171220@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Ray O wrote:
"Hammo" <hbaj2006@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote in message
news:C10AB0CE.9D26%hbaj2006@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Greetings
Apologies if this is an often discussed topic, but I need some ideas.
I have a Corolla from the 80's (11/1985) AE82, so a FWD 1.6 L SOHC 4AC.
It
has done a moderate amount of distance (240 000 km). Ambient temp 5 - 15
degrees celcius.
Question is, are the temp gauges on these things reliable and accurate? I
have only been using it for freeway driving in the last while and before
this the coolant temp has been quite normal (i.e. In the normal range).
Recently, I was traveling at 100 - 110 km/h and the gauge showed mid - 3/4
scale, then after 100 kays, it jumped up to 7/8 of the scale and then
would
not come down. I checked for leaks etc, nothing there.
I changed the thermostat and radiator cap and put new coolant in.
Operating
temp reached sooner, all good. Travel at 100-110 km/h and then about 100
kays into the trip, up jumps the gauge.
I pull over and check again, no leaks, belts there etc etc. I pull the
fan
sensor wire so that the fans will kick in. they roar for 5 minutes and
the
radiator is cool to touch, but the needle remains at 7/8. I even (with
caution) removed the radiator cap, needle stayed at 7/8 of scale.
I trundle off, and the needle drops, only to jump into the red at the next
"sniff" of a hill. Needle stays there, no steam, no obvious signs of
overheating. Oil is clean and free of mayonnaise, coolant free of oil and
hasn't lost any volume.
What do you reckon?
Water pump nucleating water to give false temp?
Sender had the gong?
Gauge reading too high?
Really overheating?
Cracked head?
What temp should the coolant be sitting at?
I came into town, and coasted down a few kilometres of hills traveling
some
70 km/h. Guage heads towards mid scale. Nice. I accelerate at the next
set of lights back up to 80 and within 800 metres, the gauge is sitting on
the upper of normal mark. Then it stays there until I pull into where I
am
staying. Radiator cap is cool enough to touch, radiator fans turn on for
a
10-15 sec blast and the go off for a minute or so and the needle stays at
the 7/8 to top of normal mark?
What is your thoughts?
Cheers
Hammo
____
Remove year to reply
Your thoughts would be greatley appreciated
As Hachiroku suggested, check the radiator and coolant condition. The
coolant should be translucent and the radiator should be free of scales and
rust. Also, the fins should be free from any debris or restrictions to air
flow.
Yes, this was flushed and replaced some 3000 kays ago in anticipation
of freeway driving.
Check the base ignition timing. Timing that is too advanced can cause
higher temperatures.
5 degrees advance.
Check EGR operation.
Where and what does this pollution control thing look like? How do you
check it?
The Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve is on the intake manifold and has a pipe leading to the exhaust manifold.
This link from Auto Zone, a parts store in the U.S., has procedures for checking the EGR as well as a drawing of the valve:
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/18/da/9d/0900823d8018da9d.jsp
If you have a vacuum pump like a Mighty Vac, you can hook it up to the vacuum port on the EGR valve, and if you apply vacuum while
the engine is idling, it should start to die.
If you have an automatic transmission, check the condition of the ATF. It
should be red and translucent.
5 speed manual.
You mentioned that you can squeeze the hoses when the engine is cold. The
hoses should be pretty stiff and difficult to squeeze when cold. If you can
squeeze the hose, consider replacing them.
Maybe, though, I'd be surprised if most people couldn't squeeze
radiator hoses when cold
You also mentioned that you can hear the coolant move when you squeeze the
hose. You should not be able to hear the coolant move when you squeeze the
hoses. With the engine cold, check the coolant level under the radiator
cap. It should be up to the bottom of the radiator neck and the overflow
bottle should be to the cold mark. If there is air in the radiator, set the
heater to full hot, start the engine, and top off the coolant.
You mentioned that you can hear the thermostat moving when you squeeze the
hose - you should not be able to hear the thermostat move in the housing.
Hopefully, it is the correct thermostat and the spring is oriented down.
Not on this engine! The thermostat housing is NOT orientated that way.
The movement I refer to is a clicking or ticking sound of something
that is restriciting flow, and, seeing as it coming from the thermostat
housing, the thermostat is the most likely candidate.
Cheers
Hammo
I don't remember how the thermostat housing is oriented in that engine, I'll assume that you installed it correctly.
The thermostat has what I call a jiggler valve, basically a small hole on the flange with a piece of sheet metal stuck in the
hole. You may be hearing that piece of sheet metal moving in the hole, and if so, you must have really good hearing. I would
open the housing and see if there is anything stuck in there. It is possible that something is keeping the thermostat from
opening all the way.
--
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)
Check all the vacuum hose's for leaks while your at it.
GL
Dan
.
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