Re: 1995 toyota camry
- From: Bruce L. Bergman <blPYTHONbergman@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
- Date: Sun, 02 Apr 2006 05:06:11 GMT
On 1 Apr 2006 20:08:49 -0800, ksidharth@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
HI All
I am buying a used toyota camry, its 1995 make . It has issue with the
relay switch that moves the window. One of the window does not roll
down. any ideas wht could the problem and how much it cost to get it
done? toyota owners..kindly sugest
They usually are not too expensive to fix, but you have to track
down the root problem first. This is not difficult, but it is time
consuming and a bit of a logic puzzle. The window rolls down when you
apply power to Terminal 1 of the window motor (and ground to Terminal
2), and it goes up when you reverse the polarity.
But before you do anything else, get a spray can of silicone
lubricant and apply a small amount to the rubber channels that the
windows slide up and down in - if the channels are dry or sticky, you
can burn up a window motor fighting the friction. It only takes a
small amount, and you need to carefully control where it goes, you
might want to squirt a bit on a cotton swab applicator and swab the
lubricant onto the channels with the windows down.
If the 'bad' window rolls down easily but not up (even after
lubrication) this is usually caused by a dirty or burned contact in
one of the switches. The 'Master' switch on the drivers door is
always open - it only applies power and ground to the two wires to the
wires heading to the motor as you push the switch. In other words,
you have to test at the motor terminals both for presence of +12V
power and presence of a chassis ground path, they are both switched.
If the wires are heading to a different door, they pass through a
second switch on that door. If nobody is pushing the remote switch up
or down, the 'master' switch power passes through the remote switch to
the motor - and these contacts can go bad too, meaning the window
motor works fine from the remote door switch but not from the Master.
It's hard to write out - but easy to understand from a picture or a
repair manual. I could draw you a diagram, and then watch that little
"Got It!" light over your head come on. Not Rocket Science at all.
Another common thing to check for on a very high mileage car (but it
sounds like it's not your problem) are bad wires in the door jamb from
the door to the body, where the wires bend every time the door is
opened - if a window only works with one of the doors held halfway or
all the way open, that's your symptom to look for.
Just have to take some time and splice fresh wires into the
high-flex area between the door and body - and then waterproof and
insulate the splices properly so they are not the failure point next
time...
--<< Bruce >>--
--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.
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