Re: Adding a Garmin to a 1984 MBZ 240D
On Feb 5, 8:55 am, Loony <Lo...@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
On 04/02/2012 13:14, Loony wrote:
On 03/02/2012 19:34, Loony wrote:
On 01/02/2012 20:46, Tiger wrote:
Use a voltmeter and you will know what you want to do. Highly
recommended you use switched positive... so Garmin shuts off when you
shuts off the car.
Hello again Tiger.
Hmmm, switched positive? We would want the contact to break when the
ignition key was open (or off?). Isn't the chassis positive? With an
Ohmmeter I should be able to tell whether that spade connection is
positive or negative. Will let you know then.
Thanks for your interest
Back again Tiger and Trader4.
Thanks Tiger for the correction. Was there a time in the past when the
positive on the battery was connected to the chassis? It has been a
while since I had to deal with this before, so I am out of touch.
I left my ignition key at zero and setup a lead between the + on the
battery and the area with the radio. I really was surprised that all 3
connections the red, white, and spade were positive. The red and white
had 2 contact points - a metal collar and a hole in the middle for
another contact. Both contact points, outer and inner, on the red and
white were positive.
It looks like I have to find another connection for the Garmin :-(
I haven't tried with the ignition key on yet. Any possibility there?
Have a great weekend :-)
I placed the ignition key at the first stop and then measured the above
resistances. They were exactly the same as in the above effort.
You should NOT be measuring resistances on a live
circuit. You are looking for 12 VOLTS and should be
have to search for that negative connection.
On the other hand, my speakers developed cracks in the speaker
diaphragms, so I could temporarily take the connection that was intended
for the lighter and use that for Garmin, but I would then
have no speaking voice to guide me. Waaaaahhhh!!! Is there no end?
The speakers had only two screws to mount to the dashboard, so the
vibrations did the damage. The diaphragms have several concentric
sections (annuli or, less used, annuluses, I believed they are called)
in the diaphragms. One of those annuli cracked up on each speaker. They
still made reasonable sounds though. I might be able to find a third
screw position on each speaker and then try to seal up the cracks.
Anyone know of a material to replace the cracked annuli? What is there
already seems to me to be some kind of tough paper.
Wish you a happy week ahead :-)- Hide quoted text -
- Show quoted text -
Are you sure it cracked due to mounting? How old are
they? The cracked ones I've seen have been because
they were old, dried out and brittle from long term exposure
to heat inside the car.
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